Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Of all the globes that would burn out in the dash, I would think the fuel light would be least likely :) On the R33 it only comes on when your fuel is just about on the empty line, which usually means you have about 10-15 litres left

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24562-feul-light/#findComment-524228
Share on other sites

JimX is right. Except i thought they came on when you have even less petrol than that left - like less than 15 kms to go.

My advice (and my mechanics) don't wait for it to come on - by the time it does you've already sucked all the shit from the bottom of your tank into the engine. Not Good!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24562-feul-light/#findComment-524233
Share on other sites

Ah, the good old "bottom of the tank" thing again :) Here are my ideas on it:

(1) Your fuel pickup is already at the bottom of the tank. It doesn't float on top of the fuel or anything. If there is any shit down there to be sucked up, it will be sucking it up constantly!

(2) When you fill up your tank, any "shit" that is supposedly in the bottom of the tank will be swirled around and thus mixed in with the rest of the good fuel. It may settle down eventually, but not by the time you drive away from the servo.

(3) There is a fuel sock on the pump, and on some Bosch pumps an extra screen in the pump. These filter out big particles pretty well. After the pump is a fuel filter which filters out finer particles.

(4) I had a good look down the bottom of my tank when I was changing my fuel pump, and it looked clean as a whistle! Not that I had a perfect view, but with a torch it all looked pretty good from what I could tell.

So I think this thing about not letting your fuel run low is a complete myth! If someone has proof of otherwise then please tell. I think the biggest thing is number (1) above though.

The *only* thing I would be wary of is running out of fuel completely, IF you have a cheap pump. Some of these cheap pumps require the fuel to keep them cool. Once you run out of fuel, there is no more cooling happening and they burn out completely within a couple of seconds.

But Skyline pumps are pretty good, I've not heard of one dying in this manner yet. And any good quality aftermarket pump (Bosch for example) will also be ok. Kia is the biggest offender I have heard of with pumps dying by running out of fuel, and it probably applies to a lot of other cheap small cars.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24562-feul-light/#findComment-524263
Share on other sites

that would vary from car to car , ive done up to 50 km on the gtr and havent run out yet or surge for that matter .

jimx , if u got rubish in the tank they always float around and u r more likely to pick up if u has a very small amount of fuel in the tank cause there is les fuel in there not because they are on the bottom . u r right in saying that u have a filter in the pick up and a fuel filter in the engine bay as well so if u have rubish in the tank u r going to pick some up . most will be blocked by the strainer in the tank , some very fine will escape but the fuel filter will them pick up .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24562-feul-light/#findComment-525054
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...