Jump to content
SAU Community

Gt35r Vs Garrett T04z - Discussion (just Post In This Thread To Create A Database)


Tomek

Recommended Posts

No, I meant are you seriously putting a link to a different, completely unrelated thread in this thread and saying "I don't want to thread jack, but............". That's just ridiculous.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I meant I didn't want to write about something totally non-turbo related in this thread so instead I just threw a link in and hope some of the GTR guys on here visit it in their travels.... I did a lot of posting about my turbo upgrade on the last couple of pages and I plan to post future stuff about my GT3582 developments in this thread. I just thought it'd be a good idea to keep the coils and anything else separate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anyways guys, this is what I ended up with when I had my GT3582 ordered through my mechanic from HP in a Box. Pretty nice hey....I like the whole new vein design on the exhaust wheel...it must give you at least eleventy-billion extra horses. This would explain why my GTR sounded uncannily like a lawnmower the milo tin at the back. A nice second hand, stuffed, ford xr6 cartridge hidden inside brand new covers and....the best thing.....I paid full price!

Not bad hey....lol, I was running that for a couple weeks! Hopefully today some time I'll receive my new cartridge bundled with a smaller .63 housing.

After $9240 of work, I have pretty much achieved as much as I would have if I bolted on a $25 bleed valve and cranked my stocko turbos up a little bit which, by the way, are in awesome condition. I've never seen turbos that are so old but in such good nick.

post-32275-1235430268_thumb.jpg

post-32275-1235430617_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, now the E11 is in and the brand new GT35 with .63 housing is also in. The only thing that's letting me down now is the coil packs which I'll replace soon with a set of Splitfires.

I just had one question though, for those who are familiar with the E11's inner workings (which I am not). Could anyone please offer up advice on how to tune in the A/C idle up rpm's vs the AAC valve that physically puts up the revs. My tuner is having a bit of fun getting this tuned in although I'll check this again tomorrow. He says that there have been known issues with the link cables/interface connectors??? Could someone please shed some light on this?

Cold start and additional rpm's for idle with a/c on are the only things that are being a bit problematic at the moment.

:ermm:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

me !

different turbo for different application. A t04z is good for another 100hp on top of what the gt35r makes at the expense of a bit more lag. If you can deal with the lag or are willing to spend a bit of money upgrading everything to improve response, then why not take the extra power!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

me !

different turbo for different application. A t04z is good for another 100hp on top of what the gt35r makes at the expense of a bit more lag. If you can deal with the lag or are willing to spend a bit of money upgrading everything to improve response, then why not take the extra power!

Get lost Lagman..35R FTW :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a GT35 with .82 rear on there before - so laggy! Now I have a GT35 with 0.63 rear....a bit better. Happy I didn't go with that T04z for my power goals - I don't think I can deal with something that spools up so late! GT35 is late enough when you compare it to the spool up time of the stock twin ceramics!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

GTRS's. No question. So much linear power. The TO4Z GTR's ive been in have had a quite violent power delivery, which as fun as it is - isnt as drivable IMO as a set of twins.

I had a single on an rb2630, then swapped for GTRS's on an rb2630 and the twins even making almost the same power are so much easier to use and quick without the "whoa fu(k does this thing have brakes?" feeling. The twins put the pace on and get to 200kmh without making a fuss of it :(

Go with whatever you like, but the above is what ive personally found and id definatly recommend them

Have you bought all the parts? What have you got?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

GTRS's. No question. So much linear power. The TO4Z GTR's ive been in have had a quite violent power delivery, which as fun as it is - isnt as drivable IMO as a set of twins.

I had a single on an rb2630, then swapped for GTRS's on an rb2630 and the twins even making almost the same power are so much easier to use and quick without the "whoa fu(k does this thing have brakes?" feeling. The twins put the pace on and get to 200kmh without making a fuss of it :(

Go with whatever you like, but the above is what ive personally found and id definatly recommend them

Yeah i suspected that was going to be the way to go. After seeing RPMGTR's results as well with the 2.9lt build they did GTRS's make good sense.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i give you 2 months till you cry for more :D

Haha I just want to get it going properly first! I know what you mean but and in that case I could always put the .82 rear back on. There's a lot of other stuff I have to do before I'd go for more power as I want to take it to more race outings. (brakes, cooling, suspension etc)

My goal for now is no more than 400awhp which is plenty.....should see that after I get pump, injectors and cams but just for now, I'd settle for around 350awhp as that's probably getting quite close to the injector's limits!

Would I be correct to assume that at around 480-500bhp one would be looking at getting the internals upgraded as well?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

.. without the "whoa fu(k does this thing have brakes?" feeling.

^^ lol

Well my GT35R is very close to going on, front end of the car is apart and will pull stock manifolds off next week to then mock-fit the new manifold + turbo :P Currently chasing little odds n ends such as the brackets that hold the cooler onto a 32GTR so I can fit the new cooler and piping.. the engine bay side of things looks pretty tight (to get to throttlebody and also from turbo hot pipe) but I want to avoid having to relocate my battery if possible! :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • From now on read it as minus 5 and minus 7 instead of dash, and you're correct...
    • Opened up the cluster to inspect the gauge itself for signs of damage and it looks good. Got curious since that needle doesn't go back to a "neutral" position by itself (it stays in the same position when ignition is off. so I manually moved it to 1/2. Connected it back, turned on the ignition and the needle started moving up! Not sure what's up with that but before that the needle was way down below empty like fully south west. There's always a chance that the needle moved slightly the first time I tried and I didn't notice because of how slowly it moves and how far it was from the markings. I don't know if the current needle position is accurate so I'll fill it up and see where that brings it. I guess I'll try to adjust it manually if it doesn't get to F. Looks like the needle position is relative and not absolute? Thanks all for your help and patience!
    • You're confusing two different responders and more than one issue. The stock Neo ECU boost sensor is used by the ECU for protection purposes. It is essentially only an overboost sensor. It is not used for determining engine load for fuelling or ignition purposes. That task falls solely to the AFM. Any aftermarket ECU that either has an onboard MAP sensor or a plug in one, will use the MAP sensor as the primary load sensor. Or I should perhaps say "can", rather than "will", because some of them have the option of using other primary load sensors. That MAP sensor is not for the same function as the stock Neo boost sensor. The reason I recommended against a plug and play ECU is that they are intended to run a particular engine and usually in the car that the particular engine came in. So, if you have a transplanted engine in a different car, with some parts of the original missing (such as the boost sensor, for example) and therefore likely non-standardness of the loom and its insertion into the car's loom, then it is very likely that you will run into the same problems with needing to fix up wiring to make it work that you would with the stock ECU. And, if doing so for the stock ECU is enough of an obstacle that you start considering a standalone plugin as a solution, it should become clear that the plugin is quite possibly not the solution you'd hope it to be. It would just lead to more of the same type of problem solving work to get it going. In the above paragraph and in my earlier post, the lack of the boost sensor is not critical. It was just used as an example of something that we knew you did not have right, such that the stock ECU would not work. I took that as an indicator of a reasonable probability that there were other related problems hiding there.
    • I can think of two places in my city of <1.5million population that specialise in automotive instrument repairs.Unless you're out in the wilds of Quebec, you have 3 major Canadian and 3 major US cities within the same distance as the single nearest city to mine. Surely there is somewhere you could send it.
    • I never cared for twins but whenever these conversations came up, I always presumed the higher number represented a larger turbo. Learn something new everyday. 
×
×
  • Create New...