Jump to content
SAU Community

Engine Swap

DVSTRK

By DVSTRK,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

DVSTRK Rising Star

DVSTRK

Posted
Posted

hey guys im new to this forum and trying to get the hang of it.....im going to buy a r32 gts-t and i am planing on non-turboing it, with a rb25de neo. just like to know how much the labour would set me back on a complete swap and will i need a new clutch to suit the n/a engine??

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246363-engine-swap/
Share on other sites
N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted

ECU would also need to be changed or altered. Why not look at a R33 GTS or even an R34? After you factor in the cost of changing the engine, new ECU and other things it might work out the same and have a newer car. Of course if the R32 is exactly what you want then that's fine too.

Are you doing this with a view to convert back to turbo later due to p plate restrictions? If so then the costs of converting to non-turbo and then back again won't exactly be worthwhile. I ask this as someone else had previously lookeod at that option.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246363-engine-swap/#findComment-4285373
Share on other sites
WIHAGTR Community Regular

WIHAGTR

Posted
Posted

Looking at history, in the end the N/a skylines always end up more expensive then the turbo ones, a non-turbo r32 coupe is much more pricey then a turbo one, and good luck with a decent manual. Its already starting to happen with the r33's and soon R34's. Your little plan is a good one. As for price I wouldn't know sorry.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246363-engine-swap/#findComment-4288035
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • joshuaho96
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...