Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well actually it's not fitted yet, I just did a dodgy camera-trick - putting the new rims in front of the current ones and have a feel what it'll look like.

Reason is I found out my stock Nissan bolt wrench head is bigger than the nut holes of the aftermarket rims...

So I didn't bother to take off the stock rims at this time...

So either I have to:

a) find a long RAYS -style wheel nuts so it will stick out just enough for my stock Nissan wrench to reach the bolt and tighten it, or

b) find a small head wrench.

But in anyway they're Sportec Mono 10 rims, (made by RAYS), 19x8.5 & 9.5 staggered set with 245/35 & 275/35 Nankang NS-II - the best money can buy in these times of financial crisis...

Even though the rims were cheap as they're second hands, but I'm not very happy with the total of EMS shipping from Japan that blows everything out of proportion and it'll be months before the wallet recovers... bloody exchange rate :-( Especially the cost from Japan to Australia is higher compared to the cost of shipping a rim from Australia to Japan (based on Austpost website EMS quote)... Asymmetrical economy...

But for the time being, just enjoy the pics... feel free to comment...

post-328-1227695086_thumb.jpgpost-328-1227695188_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246547-dodgy-diy-test-fit/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Nice rims Rianto.

Japan has some great products at great prices but getting them here. LOL. Double the cost.

I am going to try and get my 19's from the states when I am ready and the exchange rate is a little more friendly. I am sure I can get some better freight rates from the US.

Cheers

Andy

Thank's, but the finish is quite 'fragile', I accidentally lightly touched one of the rims with another this morning, and managed to chip a little bit off the paintwork on the edge. not very noticeable, but can't bear the thought what it would look like after a few thousands km of driving... all those stone chips, etc... not too mention the unlucky gutter encounter...

Thank's, but the finish is quite 'fragile', I accidentally lightly touched one of the rims with another this morning, and managed to chip a little bit off the paintwork on the edge. not very noticeable, but can't bear the thought what it would look like after a few thousands km of driving... all those stone chips, etc... not too mention the unlucky gutter encounter...

Im really fussy and it looks really nice. Maybe need those clear indicators tho . :P

I can't imagine any rim that will not mark if they touch a gutter...

Just try to make sure you fit tyres with a gutter guard in their design.

Anyway, they look real nice and you should be really happy. Are they the same offset?

How do I spot tyre rim guard? the cheapo nankangs that I put on'em has a tiny edge that protudes out slightly but not much, maybe 1 or 2mm, don't really trust them to be good enough as rim guard... but I reckon most tyre makers these days would have had some kind of rim guard when it comes to low profile tyres, e.g. 40 and below... but until I managed to mount them and have the actual car weight load on the tyres I can't tell how the sidewall will shape or if that thing that I thought as rim guard will be pushed out a bit...

The offset is +25 front and +30 rear.

Not so sure about clear indicators, seems after getting ripped off by the exchange rate this time I am a little bit paranoid getting anymore JDM parts, maybe better wait at least until it hits 80+ JPY again...

IMHO 19" still looks small-sh on these V35s.... it we had JPY120 to A$ then would have tried for some 20" perhaps...

I have a shot of one on 22s that may scare you. I'll have a dig later on and post it up.

hmm since were on the topic of rims anyone know what the largest size offered for a V35 was?

Im sure iv read somewhere that in the US G35s had the option on a 19 x 8.5" rim

Im wondering because im pretty sure the rims on my car are 19 x 11" ..... and I dont want to upset my insurance company

If there def was a 8.5" wide rim then ill be fine because QLD transport says that max width can be 1.3 times the width of the largest stock rim size wich would = 11.05"

How do I spot tyre rim guard? the cheapo nankangs that I put on'em has a tiny edge that protudes out slightly but not much, maybe 1 or 2mm, don't really trust them to be good enough as rim guard... but I reckon most tyre makers these days would have had some kind of rim guard when it comes to low profile tyres, e.g. 40 and below... but until I managed to mount them and have the actual car weight load on the tyres I can't tell how the sidewall will shape or if that thing that I thought as rim guard will be pushed out a bit...

The offset is +25 front and +30 rear.

Not so sure about clear indicators, seems after getting ripped off by the exchange rate this time I am a little bit paranoid getting anymore JDM parts, maybe better wait at least until it hits 80+ JPY again...

Not all tyres have rim guard although some are marketed that way. Unfortunately the amount of protrusion also depends on the wheel too.

You almost need to measure or at least compare the depth (width) of rubber that sits off the wheel bead. It isn't always easy to see especially with the fact that a lot of tyres are stretched over the wheel and the sidewall isn't necessarily vertical off the rim.

I guess it is also something you should ask as normally the guys will have some knowledge from previous fitments.

Looks like it, relying on sidewall only. I'll try to post a photo later tonight...

BTW Chris, you got that pic of 22" ? :D keen to see. I've seen a chrome 22" in flesh on a black Chrysler 300C, it looks mad, and suit the VIP style look of the car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...