Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im REALLY sorry for spamming this section with questions - i didn't know whether to put this in my other thread or start a new one... so i started a new one. Appologies if this is wrong mods :P

ANYWAY!

Does anybody have any advice on what the advantages are of running an RB26 head over an RB25? I already have a 25 head i can use, which is easy to do - however im a big believer in "do it once, do it right" mentality. Will an RB26 head make a big difference in throttle response and overall power?

Has anybody done both and driven both back to back?

Thanks in advance

Chris

Having seen both on a bench, the 26 offers bigger exhaust ports, and allows for the fitment of significantly higher lift cams vs the 25 head. Didn't measure the valve sizes, but exhaust valves in the 26 looked maybe +1mm as well.

To me, that means the 26 head is a better platform to make big power. That said, there are plenty of 30/25 combos producing ~ 300rwkW and not revving hard to do it.

While I think the 30/26 is a better thing, whether you get much chance to demonstrate that will depend on where you run the car and how much $$ you pour into the build. eg. for an 8000rpm 30/26 you'd be wanting forged rods, very good crank balance, very good harmonic balancer, and oil pump. The bills add up quickly if you want to spin the engine hard.

having both although havent done the final tune with th 26/30. if u wanna go more extreme go the 26/30 ( be prepared more costs involved) for a less extreme but still great set up go the 25/30 ( mind u less extreme is nothing to be shy of, i ran 352rwkw with my 25/30) that was with some serious headwork to fit big cams, solid lifters, etc etc, where as the rb26 has the potential already there ready to go

I also keep the 6 throttles, compared to a mates with almost identical set up i do find mine slightly more responsive than a massive TB.

I know that the rb25 head can flow big numbers with tomei poncams, extensive head porting and tomei valve springs.

My mechanic has achieved 484rwkw using the above mods to the rb25 head; that's on C16 race fuel, 35psi boost, no NOS, and using an rb25det (not an rb30det). I myself have done the above and have made 325rwkw, using a GT30R (500hp) turbo, 18psi and on pump fuel (BP Ultimate).

Having said that, it would probably be cheaper to sell the rb25 head and buy the rb26 head. That way you will also have the benefits of solid lifters, be able to run bigger cams and multi TB's.

The major cost is in the porting, as a good head porting job can cost you in excess of $1600.

im going down the 26 head path, hopefully going to pull some big numbers with all forged internal and pretty parts to support and keeping the 6 t/b's as someone mentioned to keep response but am yet to see what numbers im going to pull

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...