Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im REALLY sorry for spamming this section with questions - i didn't know whether to put this in my other thread or start a new one... so i started a new one. Appologies if this is wrong mods :P

ANYWAY!

Does anybody have any advice on what the advantages are of running an RB26 head over an RB25? I already have a 25 head i can use, which is easy to do - however im a big believer in "do it once, do it right" mentality. Will an RB26 head make a big difference in throttle response and overall power?

Has anybody done both and driven both back to back?

Thanks in advance

Chris

Having seen both on a bench, the 26 offers bigger exhaust ports, and allows for the fitment of significantly higher lift cams vs the 25 head. Didn't measure the valve sizes, but exhaust valves in the 26 looked maybe +1mm as well.

To me, that means the 26 head is a better platform to make big power. That said, there are plenty of 30/25 combos producing ~ 300rwkW and not revving hard to do it.

While I think the 30/26 is a better thing, whether you get much chance to demonstrate that will depend on where you run the car and how much $$ you pour into the build. eg. for an 8000rpm 30/26 you'd be wanting forged rods, very good crank balance, very good harmonic balancer, and oil pump. The bills add up quickly if you want to spin the engine hard.

having both although havent done the final tune with th 26/30. if u wanna go more extreme go the 26/30 ( be prepared more costs involved) for a less extreme but still great set up go the 25/30 ( mind u less extreme is nothing to be shy of, i ran 352rwkw with my 25/30) that was with some serious headwork to fit big cams, solid lifters, etc etc, where as the rb26 has the potential already there ready to go

I also keep the 6 throttles, compared to a mates with almost identical set up i do find mine slightly more responsive than a massive TB.

I know that the rb25 head can flow big numbers with tomei poncams, extensive head porting and tomei valve springs.

My mechanic has achieved 484rwkw using the above mods to the rb25 head; that's on C16 race fuel, 35psi boost, no NOS, and using an rb25det (not an rb30det). I myself have done the above and have made 325rwkw, using a GT30R (500hp) turbo, 18psi and on pump fuel (BP Ultimate).

Having said that, it would probably be cheaper to sell the rb25 head and buy the rb26 head. That way you will also have the benefits of solid lifters, be able to run bigger cams and multi TB's.

The major cost is in the porting, as a good head porting job can cost you in excess of $1600.

im going down the 26 head path, hopefully going to pull some big numbers with all forged internal and pretty parts to support and keeping the 6 t/b's as someone mentioned to keep response but am yet to see what numbers im going to pull

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...