Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

pioneer Amp (GM-3300T) plugged into pioneer Deck (DEH-7900,) through RCA cables and system control. Amp plugged into battery and grounded. Bridged wiring cables conected to sub. - Pioneer 6x9 also powered through the cars standard system (not amp)

This system was working in my old car (lancer) but i had a different pioneer deck. That shouldnt really matter but this set up is still not working in my R33?

The amp is working as the blue light comes on for power, and small beats are sent to the sub but are immediatly cut off by something as you crank the volume up.

Have i forgotten something? I havent had this deck for long and i am beginning to think this is the problem.

any help or advice would be appreciated thanx.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246988-pioneer-amp-sub-not-working/
Share on other sites

This sounds very familiar to what happens to my brother system. As soon as he gets a big hit of base the amp goes into "self protect" mode and cuts out then fades back in. Must have something to do with cabling or a fuse. Going to install his system in his new car and make sure everything is done right.

Check your wiring and stuff to make sure its not shorting out. The fuses and things aswell

another problem may be the heat affecting it. Make sure they aren't heating up too much.

Check the amp to make sure the treble/bass/EQ adjustment things are still set on the proper levels (if yours have these which i think they do in that series of pioneer)

But main thing should be (if it was already working in the other car) then there might be a short somewhere.

That's where i would start first

its cutting out because its pumping too much, check the amp, does it have a db controller? or something?

turn the setting down, and work your way up until it doesnt cut out..and make sure theres no treble coming out off the sub..

it happened to my old amp..shuts off to safe mode. see how that goes..

Edited by viet_boi

krzysiu : Your brothers problem was probly due to an inadequate power supply,earth or to low a load placed on the amp.

viet_boi : As mr.massive said its not "pumping" at all, it sounds like your refuring to the gain control.

on that model amp it should have a switch for LPF or HPF set it to LPF. Start by turning the gain nob all the way down.turn the volume up on the head unit to a level thats just abit louder then what you would normally listen to it,

then start to turn the gain nob up on the amp until the sub blends with the rest of the system nicly without overpowering everything else.now be carful not to turn it up too much to the point where it starts distorting.

If your still not getting anything from the amp here are a few more things to check, make sure the amp is earthed to a nice thick bolt that has had the paint sanded around it away so there is bear metal showing.

On that amp it is clearly marked what terminals to use to bridge it for use with a sub so make sure it is correctly wired up.

if none of that has worked,make sure there isnt a setting in the head unit that has the sub turned off or the sub control turned all the way down.

Where abouts are you located mate?

Jack

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...