Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi ive been having this issue for a month know i did all the normal stuff like new fuel pump, coils, new crank angle sensor, afm so on but hasnt solved my problem if any one has any idea on what to do next please let me know as i can not drive the car its really annoying. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247206-r33-dying-randomly-while-driving/
Share on other sites

You can do an ECU diagnostic using a paper clip and shorting out two pins on the consult port, a code will flash on the dash. Do a search for it on the forums, the ECU will supposedly remember problems for 50 or so starts. May help shed some light...

Edited by MintR33
Does the car idle roughly or abnormally?

i got that problem fixed it did idle rough got a new crank angle sensor and went away just dyes randomly know say ur driving and out of no where will loose all power and stop

does it idle when you slow down, after applying a tiny amount of boost. i've been having this problem as well. we figured out that the car stalls when you apply boost, even if its a little bit and then you come to a stop or change gears. i think its sumthing to do with the turbo , but then again i mite be wrong

does it idle when you slow down, after applying a tiny amount of boost. i've been having this problem as well. we figured out that the car stalls when you apply boost, even if its a little bit and then you come to a stop or change gears. i think its sumthing to do with the turbo , but then again i mite be wrong

i hope its not the turbo cars gonna send me broke lol :)

I would say it's an electrical problem, possibly one of the relays controlling the injectors or coilpacks. Maybe check the plugs (onto the relays) first, then try replacing the relays.

Sounds like your ignitor if its a series one (being that year it should be) which is located in the engine bay, S2 is actually bundled in with the ECU inside the car to avoid this problem. As it warms up (and its on its way out it) it should cut power to the coilpacks. Once its cooled (or using a cool shorting trick) it should start again. Replace or reposition it away from the engine to fix. Common on RB30's with the ignition module under the dizzy

Hi ive been having this issue for a month know i did all the normal stuff like new fuel pump, coils, new crank angle sensor, afm so on but hasnt solved my problem if any one has any idea on what to do next please let me know as i can not drive the car its really annoying. :)

Hey mate, I just collected my car from the workshop. I was having the same problem as you. I just did my 100k service..the mechanics told me the timing of my car was abit off which was causing the dying of the car and i had a boost controller installed which tuned my turbo. My car is driving fine now.. maybe you should check the timing.

Cheers!

Hey mate, I just collected my car from the workshop. I was having the same problem as you. I just did my 100k service..the mechanics told me the timing of my car was abit off which was causing the dying of the car and i had a boost controller installed which tuned my turbo. My car is driving fine now.. maybe you should check the timing.

Cheers!

Thanks man ye i got all that checked all turned out good engine runs like a dream my tuner is saying it can be your alarm kicking in when you are driving which imobilises the engine and shuts offf all i gotta say

SKYLINE OWNER SHIP= STRESS and ALOT OF FUN

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
    • There is a warning that "this thread is super old" but they ignore that anyway...
    • With 10% Ethanol, we're talking 2-3% fuel consumption difference. The emissions reductions and octane boost in my opinion far outweigh this almost non existent loss.    My tanks sitting at 80%. Luckily that should go down fast as I'm on vacation again for the next two weeks. 
×
×
  • Create New...