Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Break Down Problem :(

ian_and1

By ian_and1,
in Tasmania

 Share

Recommended Posts

ian_and1 Experienced

ian_and1

Posted
Posted

posted this up in the other sections just wondering if any-1 local would have any idea's

Ok

Cut a long story short, im having problems with my R34 at about 4800rpm+ it starts to stutter and break down.

now ive read this thread

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Mi...500-t32356.html

pulled out my coils etc most of them were arked etc so i replaced them with a new set

now i did this on friday and it was ok for the day now it's doing it again it currently has platinum plugs and for some reason i think the mechanic gapped them at 1.2 :S now that seems a lil big, can any-1 confirm if they should be at about 0.8 and could that cause the break ?

Skylines australia topic:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...em-t246886.html

Nissan silvia topic

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=350659

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247227-r34-break-down-problem/
Share on other sites
Wogboy Mentor

Wogboy

Posted
Posted

Std gap for plugs is 1.1mm, you would only go to .8mm if your running a bit of boost with std coils. If you have Splitfires 1.1mm should be fine.

When you pull the plugs throughly check the porclien for cracks, it happens sometimes. And check the coil pack harness earth.

If you know someone with Nissan Data Scan just to check for fault codes, may be of help. I have it but you are up there, you may know someone at Nissan in Launy that may be able to check it for you.

Lots of things can cause a miss, A/F meter, BOV, fuel sys etc. It's a matter of being patient.

ian_and1 Experienced

ian_and1

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Std gap for plugs is 1.1mm, you would only go to .8mm if your running a bit of boost with std coils. If you have Splitfires 1.1mm should be fine.

When you pull the plugs throughly check the porclien for cracks, it happens sometimes. And check the coil pack harness earth.

If you know someone with Nissan Data Scan just to check for fault codes, may be of help. I have it but you are up there, you may know someone at Nissan in Launy that may be able to check it for you.

Lots of things can cause a miss, A/F meter, BOV, fuel sys etc. It's a matter of being patient.

well we are gonna pull the plugs out tomorrow check the gaps etc, we fitted a new plum back GFB bov about 2 months ago ( was doing this before that) mechanic was saying something to do with the engine break like with the duel throttle body that could be playing up that, cos when you have T/C on and loose traction it makes the same sort of sound, sounds like i might need to pop into nissan just really wanna get it sorted and tuned :P

ian_and1 Experienced

ian_and1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

now if i drive the car dont floor it just slowly incrase my speed the tacho goes all the way up to 8000RPM, but as soon as i boot it, it does it again ? fuel pump or something to do with the fuel line maybe ? it's going on the dyno next week to see WTF it's doing also changing plugs over the w/e

tubedriver Newbie

tubedriver

Posted
Posted

Ian and 1,

I had a very similar problem with my R34. Your description of it sounds exactly as I described mine. I went down the spitfire coil packs road etc etc to no avail. Do you have an after market air pod and exhaust system on the car?

I took mine to Andrew Coots at Pro-Automotive in Moonah, who was able to fix the problem. Something to do with too much air at the AFM, I would suggest you give him a call.

ian_and1 Experienced

ian_and1

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Ian and 1,

I had a very similar problem with my R34. Your description of it sounds exactly as I described mine. I went down the spitfire coil packs road etc etc to no avail. Do you have an after market air pod and exhaust system on the car?

I took mine to Andrew Coots at Pro-Automotive in Moonah, who was able to fix the problem. Something to do with too much air at the AFM, I would suggest you give him a call.

standard pod, it had a cat back when I got the car and done it ever since then :thumbsup:

floody Experienced

floody

Posted
Posted (edited)
R34's are to modern to use ignighters :thumbsup:

Nissans built in igniter coil setup is brilliantly reliable! I like how the sub 10 year old coilpacks in the stagea (and most RB25DETs sooner or later) were completely, utterly rooted, and yet the 20 year old ones in the 31 power on.

Really sounds like too much air and typical mega rich fuelling and retarded ignition. Shouldn't be the fuel pump but you could check it.

Any sort of boost mods?

Piss off the wank valve and put the stock one on too.

Get fuel pressure, flow checked BEFORE it goes on the dyno, an unsympathetic (read: most) operator could well kill the thing under dyno conditions if its fuelling, and it starts pinging.

.8 gap will certainly be better, and throw away the platinums next time, just get the correct heat rating coppers for a fraction of the price and just as good performance. Don't let your mechanic sell you crap like platinums or iridiums, its just to make them cash.

Anyway, diagnosing problems over the net is like giving a haircut over the phone.

Edited by floody
ian_and1 Experienced

ian_and1

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Nissans built in igniter coil setup is brilliantly reliable! I like how the sub 10 year old coilpacks in the stagea (and most RB25DETs sooner or later) were completely, utterly rooted, and yet the 20 year old ones in the 31 power on.

Really sounds like too much air and typical mega rich fuelling and retarded ignition. Shouldn't be the fuel pump but you could check it.

Any sort of boost mods?

Piss off the wank valve and put the stock one on too.

Get fuel pressure, flow checked BEFORE it goes on the dyno, an unsympathetic (read: most) operator could well kill the thing under dyno conditions if its fuelling, and it starts pinging.

.8 gap will certainly be better, and throw away the platinums next time, just get the correct heat rating coppers for a fraction of the price and just as good performance. Don't let your mechanic sell you crap like platinums or iridiums, its just to make them cash.

Anyway, diagnosing problems over the net is like giving a haircut over the phone.

Bov has a volume controll on it (god they sound gay)

yeah it's hard to exlpain really what it's doing hopefully monday will tell

ian_and1 Experienced

ian_and1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well got a phone call from my *new* mechanic, car has been running on 5cyl with new coil packs :| waste gate on the tubo has been causing alot of problems, so tomorrow he is pulling turbo off etc, getting splitfires (should of just got them in the first place :P ) looking at spark plugs

DJRIFT Veteran

DJRIFT

Posted
Posted

i know you really like your old mechanics mate but they must be dumb shits. im pretty sure i could have come for a ride and diagnosed the problem. they really should'nt have let it roll out the door if it wasnt right.

i know you will pay top dollar where your at but it is totaly worth every penny.

oh and dont name names untill your happy with the work.

charlie22 Community Regular

charlie22

Posted
Posted

hey fellow taswegians (I'm living in WA now).

I had similar symptoms to you mate, put some splitfires on and it was all sweet.

I'm keen to bring the r34 over sometime next year for a run on some windy roads for a change, WA roads are far too straight for my liking.

ian_and1 Experienced

ian_and1

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i know you really like your old mechanics mate but they must be dumb shits. im pretty sure i could have come for a ride and diagnosed the problem. they really should'nt have let it roll out the door if it wasnt right.

i know you will pay top dollar where your at but it is totaly worth every penny.

oh and dont name names untill your happy with the work.

yeah not like im going to mouth my old mechanics or anything, gave them a fair go so we shall see how we go with the new one :D pretty happy so far really helpful. so today i should hopefully find out what the go is with the turbo and just do one thing at a time

grandmasterb Grand Master

grandmasterb

Posted
Posted

Im sure your in good hands with Ronnie now mate and by the sounds of it he has already got the problem sorted :P

Best of luck with it and i look forward to seeing it early next year on the SAU cruise :P

ian_and1 Experienced

ian_and1

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Im sure your in good hands with Ronnie now mate and by the sounds of it he has already got the problem sorted ;)

Best of luck with it and i look forward to seeing it early next year on the SAU cruise :P

nar not ronnie ben :) well im gonna call the people who sold me the turbo, see were i stand in reguards to costs for removing there turbo as it was faulty :)

haha another thing i forgot to mention car made 112kw :) running the way it was :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...