Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

posted this up in the other sections just wondering if any-1 local would have any idea's

Ok

Cut a long story short, im having problems with my R34 at about 4800rpm+ it starts to stutter and break down.

now ive read this thread

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Mi...500-t32356.html

pulled out my coils etc most of them were arked etc so i replaced them with a new set

now i did this on friday and it was ok for the day now it's doing it again it currently has platinum plugs and for some reason i think the mechanic gapped them at 1.2 :S now that seems a lil big, can any-1 confirm if they should be at about 0.8 and could that cause the break ?

Skylines australia topic:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...em-t246886.html

Nissan silvia topic

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=350659

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247227-r34-break-down-problem/
Share on other sites

Std gap for plugs is 1.1mm, you would only go to .8mm if your running a bit of boost with std coils. If you have Splitfires 1.1mm should be fine.

When you pull the plugs throughly check the porclien for cracks, it happens sometimes. And check the coil pack harness earth.

If you know someone with Nissan Data Scan just to check for fault codes, may be of help. I have it but you are up there, you may know someone at Nissan in Launy that may be able to check it for you.

Lots of things can cause a miss, A/F meter, BOV, fuel sys etc. It's a matter of being patient.

Std gap for plugs is 1.1mm, you would only go to .8mm if your running a bit of boost with std coils. If you have Splitfires 1.1mm should be fine.

When you pull the plugs throughly check the porclien for cracks, it happens sometimes. And check the coil pack harness earth.

If you know someone with Nissan Data Scan just to check for fault codes, may be of help. I have it but you are up there, you may know someone at Nissan in Launy that may be able to check it for you.

Lots of things can cause a miss, A/F meter, BOV, fuel sys etc. It's a matter of being patient.

well we are gonna pull the plugs out tomorrow check the gaps etc, we fitted a new plum back GFB bov about 2 months ago ( was doing this before that) mechanic was saying something to do with the engine break like with the duel throttle body that could be playing up that, cos when you have T/C on and loose traction it makes the same sort of sound, sounds like i might need to pop into nissan just really wanna get it sorted and tuned :P

now if i drive the car dont floor it just slowly incrase my speed the tacho goes all the way up to 8000RPM, but as soon as i boot it, it does it again ? fuel pump or something to do with the fuel line maybe ? it's going on the dyno next week to see WTF it's doing also changing plugs over the w/e

Ian and 1,

I had a very similar problem with my R34. Your description of it sounds exactly as I described mine. I went down the spitfire coil packs road etc etc to no avail. Do you have an after market air pod and exhaust system on the car?

I took mine to Andrew Coots at Pro-Automotive in Moonah, who was able to fix the problem. Something to do with too much air at the AFM, I would suggest you give him a call.

Ian and 1,

I had a very similar problem with my R34. Your description of it sounds exactly as I described mine. I went down the spitfire coil packs road etc etc to no avail. Do you have an after market air pod and exhaust system on the car?

I took mine to Andrew Coots at Pro-Automotive in Moonah, who was able to fix the problem. Something to do with too much air at the AFM, I would suggest you give him a call.

standard pod, it had a cat back when I got the car and done it ever since then :thumbsup:

R34's are to modern to use ignighters :thumbsup:

Nissans built in igniter coil setup is brilliantly reliable! I like how the sub 10 year old coilpacks in the stagea (and most RB25DETs sooner or later) were completely, utterly rooted, and yet the 20 year old ones in the 31 power on.

Really sounds like too much air and typical mega rich fuelling and retarded ignition. Shouldn't be the fuel pump but you could check it.

Any sort of boost mods?

Piss off the wank valve and put the stock one on too.

Get fuel pressure, flow checked BEFORE it goes on the dyno, an unsympathetic (read: most) operator could well kill the thing under dyno conditions if its fuelling, and it starts pinging.

.8 gap will certainly be better, and throw away the platinums next time, just get the correct heat rating coppers for a fraction of the price and just as good performance. Don't let your mechanic sell you crap like platinums or iridiums, its just to make them cash.

Anyway, diagnosing problems over the net is like giving a haircut over the phone.

Edited by floody
Nissans built in igniter coil setup is brilliantly reliable! I like how the sub 10 year old coilpacks in the stagea (and most RB25DETs sooner or later) were completely, utterly rooted, and yet the 20 year old ones in the 31 power on.

Really sounds like too much air and typical mega rich fuelling and retarded ignition. Shouldn't be the fuel pump but you could check it.

Any sort of boost mods?

Piss off the wank valve and put the stock one on too.

Get fuel pressure, flow checked BEFORE it goes on the dyno, an unsympathetic (read: most) operator could well kill the thing under dyno conditions if its fuelling, and it starts pinging.

.8 gap will certainly be better, and throw away the platinums next time, just get the correct heat rating coppers for a fraction of the price and just as good performance. Don't let your mechanic sell you crap like platinums or iridiums, its just to make them cash.

Anyway, diagnosing problems over the net is like giving a haircut over the phone.

Bov has a volume controll on it (god they sound gay)

yeah it's hard to exlpain really what it's doing hopefully monday will tell

well got a phone call from my *new* mechanic, car has been running on 5cyl with new coil packs :| waste gate on the tubo has been causing alot of problems, so tomorrow he is pulling turbo off etc, getting splitfires (should of just got them in the first place :P ) looking at spark plugs

i know you really like your old mechanics mate but they must be dumb shits. im pretty sure i could have come for a ride and diagnosed the problem. they really should'nt have let it roll out the door if it wasnt right.

i know you will pay top dollar where your at but it is totaly worth every penny.

oh and dont name names untill your happy with the work.

hey fellow taswegians (I'm living in WA now).

I had similar symptoms to you mate, put some splitfires on and it was all sweet.

I'm keen to bring the r34 over sometime next year for a run on some windy roads for a change, WA roads are far too straight for my liking.

i know you really like your old mechanics mate but they must be dumb shits. im pretty sure i could have come for a ride and diagnosed the problem. they really should'nt have let it roll out the door if it wasnt right.

i know you will pay top dollar where your at but it is totaly worth every penny.

oh and dont name names untill your happy with the work.

yeah not like im going to mouth my old mechanics or anything, gave them a fair go so we shall see how we go with the new one :D pretty happy so far really helpful. so today i should hopefully find out what the go is with the turbo and just do one thing at a time

Im sure your in good hands with Ronnie now mate and by the sounds of it he has already got the problem sorted :P

Best of luck with it and i look forward to seeing it early next year on the SAU cruise :P

Im sure your in good hands with Ronnie now mate and by the sounds of it he has already got the problem sorted ;)

Best of luck with it and i look forward to seeing it early next year on the SAU cruise :P

nar not ronnie ben :) well im gonna call the people who sold me the turbo, see were i stand in reguards to costs for removing there turbo as it was faulty :)

haha another thing i forgot to mention car made 112kw :) running the way it was :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello Liam - HA - somewhere in flies - possibly I have an update, but I have been so busy, projects have taken a back seat to getting business back on track.  I will let you know the outcome, but I think I am going to go for the 8HP,  CHEERS.  ELVIS
    • Thanks Joshuaho96, yes - as someone else also suggested, the 8HP seems the 'smart choice' - HA - and ZERO to do with cost, but I am sure 8 speeds will be better than 6 speeds - HA - maybe.  I will purchase a new 8HP,  Thanks.  ELVIS.
    • Nobody said anything about getting a "...cheap Falcon box..."- it was JUST a question about a specific transmission.  And YOU may have a problem with not enough $ - HA - I do NOT - so please keep your comments like you are some financial guru to yourself.  BUT - much appreciated re the cost of a new 8HP and I twill probably be the way I go.  Thanks.  ELVIS.
    • Most people I know in the BMW world are swapping 6HPs for 8HPs. The 6HP has a big issue with one of the clutch drum bushings wearing out shockingly early which leads to them going into limp mode going into 5th/6th gear as the oil pressure loss from the worn bushing causes clutch slip. Even with the adaptations in shifting the TCU can't bump line pressure enough to keep the clutches from slipping and burning. I've personally looked at a 335d with 6HP28 with one owner and ~90k miles on it and the transmission adaptations were way out of spec and even though it nominally drove ok I'm confident it would have needed a full rebuild sooner than later. Other than that they're fine, but the 8HP doesn't really have weird issues like this to my knowledge and they're in everything these days so pulling them out of crashed cars isn't too hard.
    • There is an ABS pump and a few solenoids. You could trigger the front/rear solenoids with a pressure bleeder attached with a Consult 2. 
×
×
  • Create New...