Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i was reading in the forced induction section that you can change the 2 stage boost to just run 7 all the time. the guy who did it was having problems but i was wondering if you guys would recommend doing this and if it is hard to do. from what i read you have to cut a wire and then ground it or something.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247252-r34-2-stage-boost/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 80
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

It's pretty easy. Essentially, theres a sensor which has a white and a black wire going into it. Cut the black wire and ground it to a nut (closest and easiest one is the Strut bar bolt).

Once thats done, start the car and give it a boot!

Boost spikes??? Some how I don't think so. Its basically a factory setup, its just not running dual stage. I don't see how boost spikes can happen.

Boosting to 15 psi also seems crazy. I mean, the wastegate actuator opens at 7psi. There is nothing in the lines like an EBC or manual boost controller, so the wastegate actuator is doing all the work. Don't know how he possibly boosted to 15psi.

Thats what I was thinking. If u get boost spike after doing this, you would have got it before as well. Nothing will change other then more boost at low RPM. Whoever said that is either speaking shit, or had a massive problem. Or is confused. Either way, they're wrong.

Dooo it Sunny!!!

You can feel the difference when you do this little mod. 2psi may not be much, but hey, its a free 2psi.

R34's run a dual stage boost same as the R33's. They go from 5psi to 7psi. With the mod its a constant 7psi :wave:

Come on guys. Enough questions. Just do it or buy an EBC or an ECU. >_<

It should never have gone this high in the first place.

now consumers will 'settle' for 99 cents a litre thinking it is 'normal'. next time, prices will hit 2dollars a litre. then they will come down to 1.20 and people will be like "OMG SO CHEAP"....

:rofl:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...