Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys I have this problem...

I managed to score a 2001 R34 Sedan with 50,000ks on the clock, RB20DE, manual for just under NZ$10,000 which was at the time pretty good at the time I had planned to keep it for a while and eventually save for an RB26DETT conversion.

Now after having it for a year I have grown attached to it but my family plans on re-locating to Australia.

Now that we have gotten the background out of the way....I would like to know if it is worth exporting my car to Australia or selling up and buying a new car in Australia? Could someone give me an idea of what it would cost to buy a 2000+(I'm picky like that) R34 sedan in Australia (Brisbane to be exact)?

If someone could answer my questions that would be great thanks.

Hi guys I have this problem...

I managed to score a 2001 R34 Sedan with 50,000ks on the clock, RB20DE, manual for just under NZ$10,000 which was at the time pretty good at the time I had planned to keep it for a while and eventually save for an RB26DETT conversion.

Now after having it for a year I have grown attached to it but my family plans on re-locating to Australia.

Now that we have gotten the background out of the way....I would like to know if it is worth exporting my car to Australia or selling up and buying a new car in Australia? Could someone give me an idea of what it would cost to buy a 2000+(I'm picky like that) R34 sedan in Australia (Brisbane to be exact)?

If someone could answer my questions that would be great thanks.

I imported my GTO from NZ as a personal import. Cost me around $3300 all up to import, Personal compliance and duty / taxes /fees. Freight fom NZ was more expensive then getting a car from Japan.

Best you look on carsales.com.au for prices and take a couple of $ off for a realistic price. If its worth NZ$10k in NZ and A$15k here + the bonus with the exchange rate it will be worth doing.

Edited by Brokenz

Well heres what I found on carsales.com.au

- 1998 R34 GT-T Sedan, 113,000ks, Manual, AU$18,000 in Victoria

- 2000 R34 25GT Sedan, 130,000ks, Manual, AU$19,000 in NSW

The first one is looks the best, but Ill see what happens when I go to AUS in Feb what there is in car yards. Do you guys have any good online auction sites in AUS like trademe.co.nz cause ebay.com.au seems bad for cars in terms of choice.

From the looks of it AUS does not believe in importing the most economical skyline which I currently have (RB20DE Neo) so not sure of price yet but looking at prices on the site give prob round 13-14k.

Have you checked that you meet the qualifications for a personal import?

The 2.0 litre isn't eligible as a SEVS import.

david @ Carizma

Hi guys I have this problem...

I managed to score a 2001 R34 Sedan with 50,000ks on the clock, RB20DE, manual for just under NZ$10,000 which was at the time pretty good at the time I had planned to keep it for a while and eventually save for an RB26DETT conversion.

Now after having it for a year I have grown attached to it but my family plans on re-locating to Australia.

Now that we have gotten the background out of the way....I would like to know if it is worth exporting my car to Australia or selling up and buying a new car in Australia? Could someone give me an idea of what it would cost to buy a 2000+(I'm picky like that) R34 sedan in Australia (Brisbane to be exact)?

If someone could answer my questions that would be great thanks.

I can't imagine anyone in aus will want an RB20DE R34 sedan... as David said there will be no other RB20DE R34s here for you to compare to since they are not elligible under SEVS (our import scheme) as they don't have enough kw per tonne. people here only import the RB25DE NEO as a minimum and most are RB25DET. and there is a big difference in price between a RB20DE car and an RB25DET as there are many differences apart from the engine (suspension, brakes, interior, body kit etc).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...