Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As topic says, my RB25 r32 is up for sale.

I have owned the car for just over a year, but have to sell it as I no longer have any parking space for it, due to being set to receive a company car in early Jan.

I purchased it as a rb20 manual and since receiving it have spent over 12k in the past year, with receipts to show.

The RB20 was removed early this year and replaced with a rb25 engine and manual gearbox out of r33 front cut with 115k's on it.

This was done by ECC and the car is fully mod plated and legal.

During that time a major service was done, replacing the belts, waterpump etc, just to be on the safe side.

Since then the car has covered just over 10 000kms.

During the 10000kms, the car was a work in progress, with the following mods/parts being added;

Engine:

RB25det, 128 xxxkms on it

New engine mounts

New belts and waterpump

High flowed turbo, by Precision Turbos

CES split front/dump pipe

High flow cat

Stainless steel catback exhaust

Hybrid Front mount

Apexi Pod

Splitfire Coils

Turbosmart plumback blow off valve

Walbro high flow fuel pump

Malpassi fuel pressure regulator

Computer

Power FC

Gizmo Intelligent Boost Controller

Drivetrain and Suspension

RB25 Gearbox

Cusco single plate clutch

ISC adjustable rear upper arms

ISC adjustable toe arms

GAB coilovers front and rear

Custom one piece 3 inch tailshaft

Hicas lock bar

Zone 17inch by 9 inch wide rims

255s on the back

235s on the front

Also, spare set of r33 standard wheels with 95% rubber

Interior

Splitfire boost and oil pressure gauge

Blitz automatic turbo timer

Cd player

JVC splits in front

Sony Xplod 6by9's in back

Kicker 10 inch sbu

2 channel amp powering JVC splits

2 channel amp powering Kicker sub

Exterior

Trust GRacer copy front bar

M spec side skirts

M spec rear pods

Overall the condition of the car is good. Mechanically it is perfect. Exterior has a few blemishes as expected of a 1990 car. The car was built to be a quick streeter with the goal of ultimately taking it down for circuit racing. Unfortunately, the budget at the moment does not allow for this, and the car has not seen the track, apart from one Willowbank outing, where it made high 13's with stereo components, full tank and myself (110kg). It was my first time down the strip and the car is easily capable of low 13's.

The power fc was installed and tuned by Brisbane Tuning and Turbo Centre and was tuned for reliability, making 219rwkw at only 12psi.

I am asking for $15 000 FIRM.

The price is firm as I can part the car out and recover more money, but do not have the patience.

No swaps please as my work car is arriving in Jan, and there is simply no room for another car at the moment. I may be interested in a swap for a roadbike plus cash.

For any questions, or to arrange an inspection, please contact me on 0408 457 698. Please note, the car will not be available to be picked up until early Jan, when I pick up my work car. Up until then it is my main mode of transport.

post-21729-1228141328_thumb.jpg

post-21729-1228141353_thumb.jpg

post-21729-1228141374_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247309-rb25det-r32-modified/
Share on other sites

Hey interested buyers,

  • Went to check this car out today, definitely needs a respray, body is straight, panels in good nick.
  • Motor sounds good but possibly running rich (exhaust is jet-black) , possibly re-tune.
  • Interior is sound, but requires gearbox/handbrake boot. AC window vents good, left hand side vent looked to be on way out.
  • Needs bit of work for a RWC (rear windscreen wiper, speedo, tires etc).
  • Surprisingly stereo not installed, unsure y, due to listed in specs (did see evidence of amp in boot and parcel shelf speakers)
  • Speedo needs hooking in (navara mod) Passenger window needs attn (possibly loose connection or motor / switch) Sunroof doesnt work, possibly come off rails.
  • Owner says there is a clunk in one side of rear coilover (booked in next week)
  • All chassis / vin numbers all match up and are legit however, according to Nissan Fast its 1989. (see image for confirmation)
  • I'd say this is a great car for somone who is willing to spend the time or money to get it up to scratch, otherwise quite a nice car.

Thanks,

Good luck with sale.

post-55273-1228611910_thumb.jpg

Hey interested buyers,

  • Went to check this car out today, definitely needs a respray, body is straight, panels in good nick.
  • Motor sounds good but possibly running rich (exhaust is jet-black) , possibly re-tune.
  • Interior is sound, but requires gearbox/handbrake boot. AC window vents good, left hand side vent looked to be on way out.
  • Needs bit of work for a RWC (rear windscreen wiper, speedo, tires etc).
  • Surprisingly stereo not installed, unsure y, due to listed in specs (did see evidence of amp in boot and parcel shelf speakers)
  • Speedo needs hooking in (navara mod) Passenger window needs attn (possibly loose connection or motor / switch) Sunroof doesnt work, possibly come off rails.
  • Owner says there is a clunk in one side of rear coilover (booked in next week)
  • All chassis / vin numbers all match up and are legit however, according to Nissan Fast its 1989. (see image for confirmation)
  • I'd say this is a great car for somone who is willing to spend the time or money to get it up to scratch, otherwise quite a nice car.

Thanks,

Good luck with sale.

for rwc it needs:

speedo to get hooked up - pretty straight forward. have the part number needed, and it's a $30 part

needs the rear wiper to be reattached

needs the hicas warning light to be turned off at the dash - hicas has been removed

and that's it.

the r33 tyres are in rwc condition. they are less than a month old.

will get some engine bay pics up

stereo is working, but is out. used to have a dvd player, but pulled it out. have a pioneer cd player, but haven't put it in yet.

cheers

ps. at the moment am not selling the car in parts, so won't be selling it without wheels etc, as i will have no use for the wheels once the car is sold.

if i do decide to part the car out (ie, it doesn't sell), i will part all the bits out pfc, turbo, exhaust etc etc etc to recover the cash.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...