Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I recently got some head work done to my R33 and after driving it around for about a week now, i started hearing like a cluttering\churning noise coming from either the belts or inside the motor. The noise is there while the car is on and gets a little louder when going over bumps, but is most noticeable when turning the car off ass the belts stop turning..

what could this be? im not sure as to exactly where its coming from..

PS. apparently my timing belt was a little loose when my mechanic took the head off, and he tightened it up, is it possible to over tighten the timing belt which could cause problems or not? when i start my car it sounds a little like a supercharger, forced sound, and it didnt sound like this before..

any help would be appreciated.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247708-belt-clutteringchruning-noise/
Share on other sites

sounds like your timing belt tensioner is screwed mate. probably as a result of being over tightened by the mech. GET IT FIXED ASAP as the RB series engines (aside from RB30) are interference engines i.e. if the timing belt breaks or slips a tooth etc the valves will smash into the pistons causing you a 10k repair bill.. hope this helps. By the way it is really easy to check/ change the timing belt by yourself. took me about 45 mins to change the belt on my R32. i cant stress enough to get this fixed.

sounds like your timing belt tensioner is screwed mate. probably as a result of being over tightened by the mech. GET IT FIXED ASAP as the RB series engines (aside from RB30) are interference engines i.e. if the timing belt breaks or slips a tooth etc the valves will smash into the pistons causing you a 10k repair bill.. hope this helps. By the way it is really easy to check/ change the timing belt by yourself. took me about 45 mins to change the belt on my R32. i cant stress enough to get this fixed.

when the belt was off, he mentioned that the idler looked a bit suspect, (he didnt say anything about the tensioner) the idler looked like it had a few scratches on it, and it didnt spin as freely as he thought it should...

and fair enough this could be the result of the whirring/forced sound, but what about the cluttering that happens every now and then when i turn the car off, could this be the same problem or something else?

i might have to try get the belt off myself and take a proper look, ive never done this before, so i might have to look up some DIY info before i attempt it...

Get in there and check it out or get your mechanic to do it. As soon as a belt snaps most people will generally go straight to the belt manufacturer to say 'your belt broke'. I would say the majority of the time timing belt failures will be due to installation issues. If the belt snaps and you haven't replaced all of the idlers and tensioners then the they won't even consider covering it as they recommend replacing all idlers etc with the belt.

If your tensioner was noted to be not spinning 'as freely as it should' then you mechanic should have really reccommended you change it. If it stops spinning then the back of the belt is running over a stationary idler. This generates a lot of heat and once a rubber belt is exposed to that for a long enough period it stops being as flexible (heated rubber eventually hardens) and will lead to a failure.

i would say get the idler and tensioner bearings changed.. should be able to get some from a bearing joint and press them in.. have you checked your fan? because my fan went recently (very suddenly) and was making a clunking cluttering noise when the engine was turned off. try and wobble the blades and see if they have any back and fowards movement. it may just be a big coincidence that the fan has went and making this noise. just another thing to check.. you need to get the bearings replaced. by a DIFFERENT mech mate. the one you took it to doesnt sound like he knows much about skylines.. not insisting you change the bearings that are shot is like pouring water in the motor and waiting for death.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...