Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just thought id start this highly important thread to discuss what Dan(out most important member) is gonna get for xmas.

any experts/people with mp3 players got any to suggest.

dont really like how ipod has the stupid itunes to put songs on so probably go a different 1. just wanna drag n take a dump with those mp3 files

been looking at samsung s3 4g which is $117 but i hear its not stereo sound

theres also touch screen iriver 4g for $125 at jb hifi that looks alright

my dato's hyundai stereo is kinda fd so this will be the replacement music in there

Edited by Inline 6
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247716-mp3-player-suggestions/
Share on other sites

i have an ipod right now it annoys the crap outa me draggin n droping song by song while it waits to update.

its such a slow process i dont even bother changing songs on it now.

i want it to play music and not be a pain in the ass to add music :P maybe deleting songs off the thing while in use would be good to thats about it

Edited by Inline 6

Doesnt seem slow to me? Listen to it on iTunes and if I like I drag and drop it over to the iPod - all my musics already uploaded onto iTunes and newly downlaoded music I chuck it on straight away............. doesnt seem that much of a hassle? lol

Almost all "branded" mp3 requires some kind of 3rd party program to transfer the music & can't just drag & drop mp3 files in windows explorer like a regular usb key or hard drive.

This is mainly done to reduce people from sharing music, ie breaking copyright bla bla bla...

If you want a simple drag & drop mp3, my 1st choice would be those "generic" branded ones, I bought a super cheapo 1Gb one from JB hifi to use in my car (AUX) & its alot better than my ipod in my opinion, no more itunes. as I use winamp to play my music.

Almost all "branded" mp3 requires some kind of 3rd party program to transfer the music & can't just drag & drop mp3 files in windows explorer like a regular usb key or hard drive.

This is mainly done to reduce people from sharing music, ie breaking copyright bla bla bla...

If you want a simple drag & drop mp3, my 1st choice would be those "generic" branded ones, I bought a super cheapo 1Gb one from JB hifi to use in my car (AUX) & its alot better than my ipod in my opinion, no more itunes. as I use winamp to play my music.

Geez is that software still around these days

Have a sansa (sandisk)8gb ipod look alike. looks like a older ones case with better features including fm radio and movies. same cables too? gets loud as hell too..lol

battery lasts forever doesnt need itunes. has a basic media converted included if you want to convert compress movies. cheap as hell about 60 bucks a year ago including the workout protective case. arm band holder. and 4gb upgrade card expandable too. highly recomended , got it from strathies, haggle a little they will come down on prices..lol or ebay ?

CNET recommends as well, (mine is the newer model of this one, same features only better firmware for more memory)

http://www.cnet.com.au/mp3players/mp3playe...40091241,00.htm

the only drawback is the charging , it only came with a cable to hook to USB to charge with. besides that no drawbacks at all for the cost.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

had a 80 gb ipod the hard drive crashed and lost all my music,photos,movies in a instant. the drive wouldnt spin up even after i took it out to put in external reader took the drive apart the heads crashed into the disk and got jammed . stay away from hard drive models ,plus harddrive models use more battery to spin the drives.

have a multitude of other mp3 players in my junk box.lol including one old harddrive player with a 250gb drive in it ..lol from a laptop. it was going to be a used as a perm mount in my car but changed my idea to use a gutted laptop instead for mutimedia etc.

heading down the iphone path in a few months when the newer models come out, a few drawback on the iphones gps , uses the towers trianglation instead of actual gps from sat. which chews up bandwidth allocation fast. and not compatable with all car audio decks yet?

Edited by sapphiregraphics

Before I invested in a decent MP3/CD head unit for the car, I used to use my phone

Its a K750i, 2 years old at least. Has a 2 gig memory stick in it, which is more than enough for listening to music in the car or bus.

I bought the adaptor which lets you plug in your own 3.5mm jack and connected that to one of those tape units (budget I know, but it was a VN commodore before the GTR and I wasn't about to spend money on it ;P)

Anyhow, you can now get more recent sony ericsson walkman phones with the 3.5mm jack out already, so you can use it as a walkman, and then get a m-m 3.5mm cable to go from the phone to an aux in of a head unit... (or the tape thingy)

I highly recommend it. The MP3's are stored on the card of your chosing and detect as a simple usb drive when the phone is plugged in.

-D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...