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Wtb Rear Camber Arms

chef_stagea
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  • 4 weeks later...
STAGTR Collaborator

STAGTR

Posted
Posted

Fellas,

I am in the same boat you are, still have > 2deg neg camber with stock camber adjustment eccentric bolt at max setting!

After doing a fair amount of research and looking around, the easiest and cheapest way around this is to get adjustable camber arms. Pretty much all of these are the spherical joint (pillow ball, ball joint etc) style and are supposedly renowned for fast wear. But they give up to 3 deg +/- camber adjustment!!

You can find these for varying prices from suppliers ranging from $100 to $450. You can get the Whiteline adjustables for $320 (+ GST) and they come with the poly style bushing (closer to OEM and supposed to last longer). Check out their website, part is KT128 or something.

I have just ordered a set of the these (See link) http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NISSAN-SILIVA-S14-S...A1%7C240%3A1318

and for a bit over $100 delivered for the pair... if they only last two years, buy another set and you're still in front.

The whiteline/suprepro bushes only give ~0.5-0.75 deg adjustment and cost $125 a kit. That's nowhere near enough camber adjustment to get down to ~0.5 deg negative. People will also say that if you buy 2 kits you can get between 1 - 1.5 deg adjustement. But you already get 0.5 deg with the stock camber adjustment and if you're already maxed out on the stock adjustment, replacing that with a bush that does exactly the same thing is waste of money and time!

As a side note, after looking at the stock eccentric bolts in the stock rear camber arms, I have a feeling that the bushes and bolts may fit the front upper control arm inner bushes... so if you transplant both of them from your rear camber arms to either left or right side front upper control arm inners, you should be able to get ~ 0.5 deg camber adjustment on the front. Cost is nothing but your time! (My fronts are 1 and 2 deg neg camber as well)

Will let you know how I go. Hope this helps and good luck.

kidafa Veteran

kidafa

Posted
Posted

once you put in your adjustable camber arms it will throw out toe, making your car chew out tyres even worse than with -2.5 deg camber (or so ive been told by mike, cheers mate)

M I K E Mentor

M I K E

Posted
Posted

^^^ that's correct, due to the IRS rear end if you lower your car and then reset camber with adjustable arms your toe geometry will be thrown out however i'm not sure how far you can get away with using the stock ones

rd-runr Community Regular

rd-runr

Posted
Posted
^^^ that's correct, due to the IRS rear end if you lower your car and then reset camber with adjustable arms your toe geometry will be thrown out however i'm not sure how far you can get away with using the stock ones

The solution seems to be adjustable camber arms and adjustable toe arms.

  • 2 weeks later...
STAGTR Collaborator

STAGTR

Posted
Posted

Just a quick update... I fitted the adjustable arms last Sun and got a wheel align done on Mon.

Managed to get down to -0.6 deg camber with +0.2mm toe out on rear using stock toe arm adjustment. that's +0.2mm more than I want, but still pretty bloody good (and acceptable).

The eccentric bolts won't work on the fronts even if they are the right size. Its the mounting holes and fixed bolt head/wahser arrangement that gives the adjustment. I thought the crush tube might be drilled off centre but no luck. Will have to find another alternative for the fronts.

Also used some baggies to secure some grease in the spherical joints... hopefully this will extend life and keep dirt/dust/sand out.

I have been driving on em all week no probs. The car actually feels a lot more planted through corners too?!

I took some photos and have before and after wheel alignment computer printous... might put together a How to fit rear adjustable arms" tutorial tomorrow.

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