Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just "tried" to install the turbo controller from ebay and when i was running the car to find how to have the controler so it would run at 10 pound but the guage kept hitting something like 20 pound. :blink: i kept trying to change it but it wouldn't go down and now when i run the car and open the throttle all the way smoke comes out the exhaust and it doesn't sound like the turbo is spinning....wat do u think it is?...also wat can i do?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247993-i-think-i-killed-my-turbo/
Share on other sites

high chance of it being a turbo seal. get it checked out mate. doing a turbo swap is pretty easy (done it for a fair few SAU'ers so far) with the right tools/skill it shouldnt take more than 3-4hrs in and out.

high chance of it being a turbo seal. get it checked out mate. doing a turbo swap is pretty easy (done it for a fair few SAU'ers so far) with the right tools/skill it shouldnt take more than 3-4hrs in and out.

u in sydney? do u know any1 that can check it out for me?

I'd like to know if you can f**k a turbo and not have it blow white smoke, as thats what my cars doing, no boost, bad metallic noises when it tries to boost.

turbo can do a few things on failure. you can blow a seal and have white smoke pour out, you can blow an oil seal ring and blow blue smoke out or it can seize up/break apart and have no smoke pour out.

u in sydney? do u know any1 that can check it out for me?

yeah im in bankstown. send me a pm if you want me to check it out.

turbo can do a few things on failure. you can blow a seal and have white smoke pour out, you can blow an oil seal ring and blow blue smoke out or it can seize up/break apart and have no smoke pour out.

Well it appears mine is leaking oil (bottom of the turbos covered in oil), and the two times I tried to boost it (just after the nice big bang) I was getting metallic noises, all other vital signs were ok though. so I guess the turbos probably lunched itself, plus I was getting some light knocking sound from the head when I had it idling, this arvo. Best thing to do is a compression test?

turbo can do a few things on failure. you can blow a seal and have white smoke pour out, you can blow an oil seal ring and blow blue smoke out or it can seize up/break apart and have no smoke pour out.

yeah im in bankstown. send me a pm if you want me to check it out.

ok well...there is smoke when i am moving and when the boost tries to kick in and there is that metalic sound... i live in bass hill

Well it appears mine is leaking oil (bottom of the turbos covered in oil), and the two times I tried to boost it (just after the nice big bang) I was getting metallic noises, all other vital signs were ok though. so I guess the turbos probably lunched itself, plus I was getting some light knocking sound from the head when I had it idling, this arvo. Best thing to do is a compression test?

best thing would be to get it towed to a mechanic and get him to do compression/leakdown and oil pressure test.

ok well...there is smoke when i am moving and when the boost tries to kick in and there is that metalic sound... i live in bass hill

yeah dude sounds like turbo is gone.

best thing would be to get it towed to a mechanic and get him to do compression/leakdown and oil pressure test.

yeah dude sounds like turbo is gone.

i didn't get a bang though and i can't see any oil at the moment.

thanks for the assist :blink: as f**ked up as it is trying not to let this get me down

for $250 for a 2nd hand turbo you can do it all yourself if you have the confidence.

i didn't get a bang though and i can't see any oil at the moment.

it sounds like your turbo bud. it could be something else but thats my take on what you've reported.

can any1 help me out with a stock R33 turbo for cheap?...i don't have much money at the moment due to debts so if any1 can help me out and we come to an arrangement or something...i am only a 1st year sparky apprentice so i get paid peanuts :)

you saved $150 getting the boost controller fitted at your local dyno shop.

so it cannot all be that bad, remember when you put your new turbo on you will need to get the controler fitted by a professional so your new turbo does not break as well :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...