Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Looking for the starter relay on a Stagea (series 2 C34) or even an R34 or R33 should be close enough. I've pulled every relay in the car and the dang thing still cranks... the starter circuit is annoyingly separate from the ignition circuit.

Car is auto btw; also if someone has the location of the park/detent switch that would be fabulous also; I can't find that either and thus have no way of interrupting the starter motor cranking (want to immobilise it, but stupidly the ignition barrel circuit is on the switch side of the crank relay?!?! this means 30+ amps which is more than my immobiliser is capable of)

If someone prefers to PM me this info instead that's also fine...

thanks

DaveB

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248038-starter-relay-on-stagear34r33/
Share on other sites

Thanks Chris. According to the fusebox in the engine bay though there isn't a starter relay? (the labels are in english). I also removed my tiptronic gearstick surround but I can't find anything there; when I unplug the main harness connector attached to the gearstick surround it still starts?!?! I guess it must be under the car?

Seriously the only way that I seem to be able to stop this thing starting, is to disconnect the solenoid start wire, which is pretty obvious to a thief (who can just short the starter anyway I suppose).

or interrupt the ecu's main power or ign start signal. or the power to the ECCS relays, or the fuel pump relay signal. there are a few things you can interrupt on the car that will 'immobilise' it, some of them the car will crank but there is now way it will start.

or interrupt the ecu's main power or ign start signal. or the power to the ECCS relays, or the fuel pump relay signal. there are a few things you can interrupt on the car that will 'immobilise' it, some of them the car will crank but there is now way it will start.

Thanks yeah, I will be going for some of these. I just hate it when I can still crank the motor though, 'cause I know that lots of times I am going to try to start the car and it's going to catch me out - ie. crank for a bit before I work out what's going on. It just wears out the ring gear and the starter motor.

  • 2 weeks later...

Just a note, the ECU does not seem to like it when you interrupt its main power (not battery power, the relay in the wiring diagram marked "engine control/ignition coil"). Strange since nothing should be happening until ignition is active anyway. Car wouldn't start (well at least it was immobilised :))

Edited by DaveB

Thanks Chris.

Appears that it's ok as long as you immobilise the switched side of the relay; ie. not the coil connections. That adds impedance to the connections that the ECU sees and messes with it.

PS Finally got my immobiliser/alarm system working, with window lift kit and battery backup siren, gps & sms integration etc. etc. It's a really awesome system, and if it all keeps working, it should do fine. And at under $350 in parts including delivery (not counting the GPS module) it was a bargain.

However... the 40+ hours of my time... were not a bargain. If I ever have to do another one of these, I am getting a professional to do it, and if it's a 'messy' job I'll just try to tidy it up afterwards, rather than trying to keep it all tidy from the beginning. It's a lot of work. I just finished replacing the insides of my stagea AGAIN after having them out for the last 12 hours chasing a short in my parking light circuit. Not fun.

Edited by DaveB

how do you think you will go with the insurance side of things? if you ever have to make a theft claim (god forbid), i thought you had to show that you had a professional do the install of the alarm immobiliser system, i might be wrong though. this is the only reason i haven't gone and installed one myself.

I recommend getting it done professionally anyway unless you have at least a week to spare (just in case)... but as for the insurance companies it seems to be company specific. I contacted mine (Shannons) and they told me as long as they could see it working they didn't care if it had a certificate or not. Others may be different (and may give you a reduction of your premium for having a security system fitted too :D)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
×
×
  • Create New...