Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm having a few issues with my 32.

Current mods are 3" cat-back, aftermarket coils and FMIC.

The stock turbo seems to have an aftermarket actuator on it running at 14psi.

The turbo ramps up to full boost fine and holds it without a problem, but once at full boost, the 32 seems to loose power. It doesn't cough or hesitate, but seems to plateu torque wise. A couple of worthy side notes, there seems to be a feint squeeling coming from somewhere on full boost, I was thinking belts slipping, but could this be a shagged turbo? Also the IC is slightly damages on the bottom, but doesn't seem to leak.

I have checked for boost leaks (though it wouldn't hold boost if it did have leaks) and changed the fuel filter. Next on the list is plugs.

I was thinking:

* Ignition timing

* Fuel pump

* Exhaust manifold gaskets

* Blocked cat

Any other thoughts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248317-32-gts-t-problems/
Share on other sites

have you checked all the vacuum hoses to boost controller, checked the coolerpiping and just all the hoses n stuff around the engine bay?

little squeeling suggest your losing boost pressure somewhere via a hose or pipe, as its only small.

just food for thought...

have you checked all the vacuum hoses to boost controller, checked the coolerpiping and just all the hoses n stuff around the engine bay?

little squeeling suggest your losing boost pressure somewhere via a hose or pipe, as its only small.

just food for thought...

I checked all the vac hoses tonight, and am not running a boost controller.

I was thinking the same thing about the squeeling, but thoughts because its holding pressure (acording to the boost gauge) I kinda ruled it out.

put it on a dyno and check your a/f r's...mine did the same,car was running out of fuel

My AF gauge (though dodgy) is leaning out under boost, would this indicate fuel pump? What was the reason for yours running out of fuel?

Have you considered that the ECU isn't programmed to run the engine with 14psi boost behind it?

I have, from what i've read, the factory ECU can handle it fine... though I havn't pulled it out to see if its been fiddled with...

Well, I spent the afternoon at the workshop, changed all 3 belts, the squeeling has gone altogether, cleaned out the AFM and airfilter (KN drop in panel) its now running 100% better but still hesitates/misses above 5000rpm on boost.

I'm changing out my plugs and IC core (as mine is slightly damaged) on Saturday as well as looking at a new fuel pump.

Will let you know how I go.

Just a side note, when cold, I have to sit in the car when I start it and hold the throttle slightly on for a few seconds otherwise is stalls.

Hmmmm

Well, after a long weekend, I've finally gopt the 32 running at 99%

Changed the plugs (turns out the ones in there were the wrong ones for the car!)

Got the injectors cleaned

GTR fuel pump

New turbo actuator

Runs beautifully now, but still coughs and hesitates when cold.

Going to be checking the ICV tonight.

Thanks all for the help.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
    • I NEVER think about using a scissor jack unless there is absolutely no other alternative. f**king things are dangerous, annoying and stupid.
×
×
  • Create New...