Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I want to know if anyone here has done the "coke bottle lid in the BOV return pipe" mod. I've read threads in forced induction section and people get flamed because they want it for the noise

My reason is a bit different

I just got my cooler installed and took it out for a test spin and i get this weird air leaking sound...its really audiable when my Blitz SBC iD Spec-R Boost controller is on and running a set boost but it's not as much noticable when the controller is off...found that the nipple that is on the BOV return pipe is cracked and I'm thinking that's were the leak is coming from.

As a test, I want to put a coke bottle lid to block off the return pipe to see if it will get rid of the leak...(i know that means that i'll get "fully sick uleh" noise but at the moment i'm not worried about it for now...also being an auto I don't know if the stalling side effect will happen)

Now it's only a stop gap measure as i will get the nipple fixed (which is very soon)...I just want to test my car with everything on and running (safely of course)

The other way is to keep the boost controller off until i get the nipple fixed (which I'm doing now so I can get to work)

your thoughts and ideas??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248422-coke-bottle-lid-mod/
Share on other sites

Since I'm not going to make a new thread about my issues i'll just add on this one

did the coke bottle lid mod and took the car out for a spin...had the boost controller set to 10psi and gave it a stab...get this high pitched noise coming from somewhere in the motor (i get two noises, one is the standart turbo spool and the other is this high pitch noise)...pulled over and checked, there is no noise at idle...gave it a few revs and you can just hear it (obviously it's not going into boost but..yeah) on the drive back turned off the boost controller so its back on stock boost....no noise (or it's very less audiable)

don't know what it can be...car still runs fine, still boosting ok on stock...not going to have the boost controller on for now as i can't stand the noise and I'll be taking the coke bottle lid out as the return BOV pipe is not causing the noise

any ideas??

I once experimented with the 'coke bottle lid' - lasted all of 1 day then the thing melted :P Bit the bullet and looked into a proper Turbosmart Alloy Bung - wasn't expensive so got one of those instead.

I don't use it anymore, so if anyone is keen, shoot me a PM - yours for REAL cheap!

COKE CAN FTW

only stalls if you are being a douche :(

i can vouch for that, altho i didnt use a coke bottle thingy.

mate got a proper peice of metal laser cut for the same size as the bov.

yeh, it only stalls when u want to be a muzza.

i did it for kicks tho, so yeh, it stalls on me haha

flutterz ftmfw

*flame suit on*

it is possible u have a sharp edge on the inside of your cooler making the whisstle.. my first aftermarket cooler (hybrid) made a whistle noise when i installed it, nothing to serious now on my second stagea and installed a monsta fmic of ebay and was expecting a whistle noise but she is smooth as.. not sure if that's your problem but its an idea, can anyone confirm my theory..

it is possible u have a sharp edge on the inside of your cooler making the whisstle.. my first aftermarket cooler (hybrid) made a whistle noise when i installed it, nothing to serious now on my second stagea and installed a monsta fmic of ebay and was expecting a whistle noise but she is smooth as.. not sure if that's your problem but its an idea, can anyone confirm my theory..

let's just say that is the case...what's the best way of fixing it??

I had a prob with a "noise" of all sorts. Thought it was a stuffed turbo but it turned out to be a leak where the inlet hose goes into the turbo. Had inadvertantly broken the seal on the pipe while installing the R34 smic.

Any leak either on the suction (inlet ) side or discharge (boost) side of the turbo will produce a variety of noises and consequences. Dyno on the S13 last week gave 273hp at 20psi, but then fell in a heap. Leak in blocking plate for ex cold start dropped boost to 16psi.

The subtleties of forced induction are a very crooked path.

your problem may be the boost controler actuator click as it comes on boost

I havent heard a blitz spec r do it before but Apexi boost controlers are well know for it

would explain it not happening on stock boost

second noise would be from something you touched since its only just start after you played with stuff

your problem may be the boost controler actuator click as it comes on boost

I havent heard a blitz spec r do it before but Apexi boost controlers are well know for it

would explain it not happening on stock boost

second noise would be from something you touched since its only just start after you played with stuff

The Blitz Spec R does click...but that's not the noise...I've got some time off coming up so I can check it out...mate of me was next to me and told me to give it and he said it sounded horrible but its definitely an air leak...the car is still boosting ok (other than the boost going past the blitz limiter and what I have set it to)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dredgggggeeee time; I have recently finally started driving the car. It sat for so long that the fuel tank gave birth to rust sludge and blocked my lift pump sock and one of my walbro 460's and left grime, rust chunks and muck all through the surge tank and system. I decided to commit and pull the trigger on an oem r32 gtr fuel tank and Frenchys twin 460 / sender / surge tank hanger combo and all new larger lines and fittings etc, also boost doc heater hose kit / new heater core and a heap of other bits and shits like wideband sensor installed in the dump and Syltech iacv + lines and all wired and added to current tune. now having lightly driven it a couple times without issue, I can happily report on the hta3076 in its current tune. still no boost control switched on, 20psi gate springs, car makes 22psi at 3200rpm in 6th gear with 30-50% TPS from cruise at 100kmh. Going by the old graph, this means it should be making 300-325whp at the same numbers above. Very very responsive setup under true road driving loads. all that's left for the build is body loom + PDM, finish the remote aircon setup, install carbon fibre parts and go for full tune and 30psi. the 315 rear tyres are now performing like they're 195's, wheel spin in any gear at almost any rpm, whereas my previous setup hooked up in 3rd no issue, albeit Nt01's back then / RB25 5spd vs (new) old date r888r's Z34 6spd now, + obviously all the support upgrades I listed in the quoted post above. car sits at 1-3psi on cruise at 100kmh, expectations totally exceeded and I'm beyond stoked with all this so far. IMG_4848.mov
    • I've also been eyeing their rear axles for my car. I purchased seat mounts from them about 7 years ago and they were hot garbage so I've been a little wary about purchasing them. With that being said, please buy them and get back to us haha. 
    • Can a moderator please move this into the right category.. I've accidently put this into racing build thread 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Being a manual, we very quickly ordered new R34 gearbox (From Nissan) and remaining parts from Kudos motorsports. Would highly recommend the team there. Ultra helpful and quick to share advice and upgrades. We are in the middle of taking the Auto out (Genuine 94,000/kms) and putting the Manual in this weekend. Part 2 of the build will include likely a Plazaman Intercooler and Plenium, Hks Exhaust with Tomei Dump (ordered).
×
×
  • Create New...