Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been looking on the net for some sort of legislation for modifications etc. Does anyone know where it could be found ?

So have I. I'm looking at bringing a car up from NSW which has a fmic, pod filter, etc... but its been done with no expense spared and very professionally by the current owner, and I'm unsure as to whether to buy it or not in case I have rip all the stuff out simply to be able to register it. The Qld Transport link in one of the posts above doesn't quite answer it, also theres all this talk about only being allowed one intake mod etc... so its all very confusing. Is there someone somewhere in Qld in some official capacity who actually knows the answers to all this ?

NEVER heard of that before. I don't beleive it to be true either.

As mentioned, pods have to be firmly secured by a bracket (zip ties arnt safe apparently). You do not need a heat shield for pods in QLD however its better for you to have one as youll get lower intake temps.

BOVs have to be plumbed back. You are allowed dual ports as long as one side is plumb back and it is set to that on the street. Despite common beleif they arn't illegal due to emissions but rather making unessecary noise.

Any questions you can call the Queensland Transport modifications line on 3253 4851

Well I've just re read this whole thread, and found the number listed above. I called them and they were spot on, seemed to be able to answer every question. So if anyone else is in my situation, simply call this number and they'll 'give you the good oil' so to speak ..........

  • 1 year later...

Hate to dig up an old post but it seems the law is a prick of a thing when it comes to emmisions. My rb20 has 230kw and was just wondering if the remapped ecu/ bigger injectors/ boost controller are legal to have. I know the pod I have with the front mount attracts some attention so I will chase down a standard box.

Hate to dig up an old post but it seems the law is a prick of a thing when it comes to emmisions. My rb20 has 230kw and was just wondering if the remapped ecu/ bigger injectors/ boost controller are legal to have. I know the pod I have with the front mount attracts some attention so I will chase down a standard box.

They could technically pull you up for some of these things but without the ability to actually test your car (compared with other states) it is not too bad here in Queensland.

ECU, Injectors and boost controller are a few things that you can probably get away with as they can be hidden completely.

thanks alot :). I currently have a greddy pro b spec 2 controller mounted inside my ash tray and the original ecu is simply remapped so looks stock. I'm using a stock fuel rail so its hard to make out any difference in injectors (if you don't know what to look for). so i think i should be pretty safe ATM i will just have to take my chance when i do a better build on the car and only drive it once a week and hope i don't attract any attention. if i go driving with a friend who has a HQ one toner with a 545 big block im pretty sure he will take most the heat anyway :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
    • Selling a SMIC for a Nissan Stagea C34 Series 2 and the pipe from the intercooler to inlet. (I believe it is the same R34 GTT, please correct me if I'm wrong) Price: $50? I dont have a photo of the big black pipe that goes from SMIC outlet to throttle body.
    • So the original radiator is leaking now. Looking at getting a fully aluminium one next. Am I correct in saying that the Series 2 Auto Stageas have a separate trans cooler from factory (located in between the rad and intercooler in my previous post/message).   Currently looking at Fenix $460, Blitz $700, GReddy $800, and KoyoRad $740. What are everyones thought on Fenix ( ive read a few comments saying theyre cheap Chinese rebrands etc and how their build quality is... well.. chinese...)  compared to the others? Worth the extra couple hundies?
×
×
  • Create New...