Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 305
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

well i should be putting out more then what i did last year

car was pretty much standard with basic mods....standard boost and all

and it made 179rwkw.....so hopefully this year crack the 200+rwkw

Hi guys,

We are pleased to announce that as of next week, we will start accepting entries for this event. There will be more distinguished classes this year including:

Evo V Rex Challenge (Sponsored by S&J Automotive)

RB V 1/2JZ Challenge (Sponsored by Philcom Rally)

Rotary Challenge (Sponsor confirmed soon)

Bent 8 Bender (Sponsor confirmed soon)

Most Powerful FWD (Sponsor Conformed soon)

Dyno King (Most powerful overall - Sponsor Confirmed soon)

and much more.

This event will also be covered by the new "E-Magazine" custom-cars-online.com

Entrant details will be released on this thread, and via www.dynoday.info very soon.

We look forward to seeing you there.

so is there any forms or something that we gota fill out

as i am keen on this one so i will be entering no doubts

Entrant details will be released on this thread, and via www.dynoday.info very soon.

Hi Guys,

Finally, my registration has cleared, and I can post!

My name is Daniel, and I am the guy who organises these events, and I am pleased to say...

ENTRIES ARE NOW OPEN!!

Either call Lynette at Graham West Workshops on 8277 5688 or call in and pay and register to 100% confirm your spot.

Be quick as there are only 40 spots!

As mentioned earlier, there is a RB Vs JZ challenge sponsored by Phillcom Rally, so make sure you enter to try and take hom a prize, and stick it to those Toyota boys!!

Cheers! :banana:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
    • Yeah - I mean, go the other way. Smaller range. Not larger.
×
×
  • Create New...