Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just for the record.....

$2400 isnt cheap.... considering there on special...

RPM Performance centre in adelaide do the Garrett GT30 600HP DBB with 1.06A/R for there NORMAL price of $2250.

Man i got my GT3540 1.06 for $1980...

BRAND NEW, still had Garrett factory stamping on comp cover.

http://www.rpmperformancecentre.com.au/Turbos.htm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24896-gt3040/page/2/#findComment-530773
Share on other sites

T3 Flange is what we want right ?? But need external gate on the manifold - means hacking existing manifiold or fabricating a new one - in which case the flange spec don't matter cause you wil be fabricating a new one anyhoo.

Sounds expensive.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24896-gt3040/page/2/#findComment-530945
Share on other sites

You mean this one Jimbo ??

r33turbokit-s.jpg

That's not Merli's - I doub't Andrew would seperate :

This is the GT3040 that CGC sells - but in a package with standard (modified) manifold and external TIAL gate.

Pretty pricey - and I wouldn't use the standard manifold......

I'm a little concerened with lag - as I understand anything over about 600HP is getting up there in the lag stakes.

I suppose one could just keep the revs over 4000RPM - then no lag problem right ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24896-gt3040/page/2/#findComment-530996
Share on other sites

B-man,

fyi, the two turbos which GCG list as "GSB8005A" & "GSB8006" are actually two totally different turbo cores as per Ray Hall's website. the specs are as follows;

i) GT30 (GSB8005A - 700177-0011) : Rated at 475hp

* A/R 0.70 comp housing

* 52 trim compressor wheel (TO4S - 2.17"/3.00")

* 50 lbs/min max. comp flow

* A/R 0.82 exhaust housing

* 90 trim exhaust wheel (2.11"/2.22")

ii) GT30 (GSB8006 - 700177-0014) : Rated at 600hp

* A/R 0.70 comp housing

* 64 trim compressor wheel (GT40 - 2.41"/3.22")

* 65 lbs/min max. comp flow

* A/R 1.06 exhaust housing

* 84 trim exhaust wheel (2.16"/2.36")

the 2nd unit would be what is considered the Garrett GT3040 as it uses the 64 trim compressor wheel from the GT40 family along with the A/R 1.06 exhaust housing to allow for great air/gas flow.

Any smaller exhaust housing would make it more streetable although max power would be limited due to exhaust flow restriction with the smaller housing.

cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24896-gt3040/page/2/#findComment-531037
Share on other sites

No they don't, all Garrett GT30 turbos and higher are T3 exhaust flange.

The HKS GT3040 turbo uses a GT25 flange. Some HKS turbo come in T3, some with GT25, check it out here:

http://www.hksusa.com/categories/more.asp?id=1092

For those who care, this is the difference between HKS GT3040 and Garrett GT3040, HKS just Garrett parts mixed up in various combos, with proprietary housing designs:

HKS:

Rated at 500hp

* A/R 0.70 comp housing

* 50 trim compressor wheel (58mm/82mm)

* A/R 1.12 exhaust housing GT25 flange

* 84 trim exhaust wheel (60mm/55mm)

Garrett:

Rated at 550-600hp, depending on exhaust A/R

* A/R 0.7 comp housing

* 64 trim compressor wheel (61.3mm/82mm)

* A/R between 0.82-1.06 exhaust housing T3 flange

* 84 trim exhaust wheel (60mm/55mm)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24896-gt3040/page/2/#findComment-531458
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Freebaggin

For those who care, this is the difference between HKS GT3040 and Garrett GT3040, HKS just Garrett parts mixed up in various combos, with proprietary housing designs:

Check the number of blades and the actual design of the compressor/turbine. It's a bit more than just mix n' match from a Garrett spare parts bin.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24896-gt3040/page/2/#findComment-531708
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...