Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey ive tuned your car!!.. Twice! Stop your whinging!

& No can do Titan.. you got stock turbo.. i am guessing it would break on your first anti lag.

ignore that bit i want the wanky idle :) the antilag would have an arming threshold of 8000rpm and 100% throttle. but you have to have it on for the ilde so running 0 degrees ignition retard with an arming rpm that i wont reach will mean it never triggers and my exhaust wheel remains out of my cat.

  • Replies 155
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I know you have, and it's still alive! :banana:

It would be in skyline heaven if I tuned it :)

Guilt-toy is a gun tuner...im going to get him to look at my 13th century medieval harp as well.

im going to be installing my vipec tonight so i can get it in before my engine is started. ive got a few questions.

i want to hook up my wideband to it, where do i get the expansion loom from? how much are they?

i read in the vipec manual that you had to use a 1mm restrictor for the map sensor, has anyone done this? i was doing this with my greddy 3bar map sensor to keep the boost readings steady and it worked really well (except i had to use a 0.3mm restrictor).

which wires does the IAT sensor connect to?

IAT has to be wired in yourself to any of the AN Temp inputs (mine is on temp3 (expansion connector)), you can wire your wideband up through the NB oxy wires (AN Volt 6).

My map line doesn't have any restrictors in it.

The Vipec dealer can supply the expansion loom. Alternatively you can solder direct to the board (I did for my boost switch)

i wouldnt solder onto the board, re-sale of it would be less if it was tampered with i think. is there a PC part out there that will work for now?

I don't plan on selling it, so resale is not a problem...and it can be removed in no time at all :happy:

I looked for a suitable connector at Jaycar, but couldn't find one. The pin spacing is very small.

  • 3 weeks later...
Sounds great. I have an overboost problem at present and wouldnt mind checking out whether its teh boost controller thats causing the problems without buying an expensive new one. Solinoids are 100NZD (not sure about AUD) if you want a new one also.

Look forward to hearing how it goes mate.

Got the stock r33 RB25DET boost solinoid working with the Vi-Pec on the weekend. It works very good. Honestly if you spent a little extra time with the boost controller settings you could get it to have a very very flat boost curve. Mine spikes a little but i was happy with the way it spiked.

You need to program the duty cycle per load point. So if it spikes you add duty number, if boost is too low you you remove the number. Took me AGES to work it out. but once i got it worked out I got decent boost pressure AND....

502.JPG

I did get 511rwhp with e85 but it was running very very lean up top because i was out of injectors. So yeah very happy with my flat power curve from 135 to 180 all the way it has 2hp more or less then 500 :thumbsup: ! Just how i like it. Useable power revs.

Changed back to pump

The more I use my Vi-Pec the better i am getting with it, Twoogle was a breeze to tune as well.

So yeah another win for this great ecu. Cost me 0$ for electronic boost controll and its only a 2 port solinoid!!

GT, after all ur playing around.. how long do u think it will take a tunner to go from standard ecu to a full tune that includes all the cool stuff the vipec has to offer, such as setting up anti lag launch control flat shift cycle idle. and getting the boost control fiarly dialled in??

GT, after all ur playing around.. how long do u think it will take a tunner to go from standard ecu to a full tune that includes all the cool stuff the vipec has to offer, such as setting up anti lag launch control flat shift cycle idle. and getting the boost control fiarly dialled in??

there is alot of setup there mate, like

- Install ECU and run map sensor

- Install air temp sensor in pipe and run wires

- install digital input to clutch switch and run wires

- Set timing on engine

- Map ecu for cruise and boost...

Thats a big mission.. I would think it could take 4 hours totally completed by a Vi-Pec experienced tuner. He would have to be good at what he does and know how to do it and has done it with this ecu a few times.

I did notice with pauls car that when i was setting up and getting ready to tune I was flying through the setup and getting all configured and working ready to tune in no time at all.

So yeah 4 to 5 hours if nothing else goes wrong - Drive in - Drive out deal.

I would love to see someone setup a Power FC and tune it in that time, setup a aftermarket boost controller and setup a aftermarket launch interface and then your still missing anti lag and PROPER flat shift with time delay and timing retard.

So yeah this ecu is friggin awesome now, once its actually fully finished and developed properly (Ray hall is continually working on improving it and adding features) it will be a pretty damn good first choice ecu for all applications.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...