Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a twin turbo pipe and also trying to get a Plenium from a 33 gtr, and i want to polish them up.

I want to polish out the ummm grain i guess you can call it to make it smooth and not bumpy and lumpy.

What would i need to use to sand that out of it?

Im not even thinking about getting it shinny till i have it smooth as smooth.

How?

thanks

post-33454-1229562142_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249350-polishing/
Share on other sites

That pipe still looks like its gota light glaze / polish from factory.

I guess if you sand it back to the bare metal you can use Metal Polish and just polish it like the same way you polish your car body paint.

Or ask Craved (Chris), he's usually got some good tips.

Last time he suggested to me some sorta silicon spray polish.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249350-polishing/#findComment-4325059
Share on other sites

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Al...mp;hl=polishing

^^ read :P

alot of work, i have since found that a scotch brite pad on a grinder will help start off the sanding/grinding process without digging into the surface or putting many deep scratches in the metal.

you are looking at alot of work though :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249350-polishing/#findComment-4325347
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

hot it with heavy sand paper to smooth it out, then hit it with something like this

http://www.australianabrasives.com/flapwheels.htm

to clear out the sanding marks in from the last step

then back to 400 grit

you can tell now why its not cheap to polish stuff haahaha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249350-polishing/#findComment-4339282
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Good to hear. Hopefully you're happy enough not to notice when driving and just enjoy yourself.
    • I mean, most of us just love cars. Doesnt necessarily have to be a skyline.
    • Did you pick up a manual cluster to remove the position indicator?  (Pretty sure the 34 has the gear position in the cluster, but it's been a while)
    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
×
×
  • Create New...