Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

17x9 +22 all round on 235/45R17 for R32 Gtst without any guard modifications.

will it scrape on full lock?

how far will it sit out of stock unmodified guards front and rear?

will i need any modifications on guards for them to fit?

car is mildly lowered so hopefully it won't cause any problems.

any pictures of similar spec wheels on a r32 would be good too.

any help appreciated. thanks!

Edited by jakez88

Hmm i reckon it's gonna be a bit of a stretch to fit them. (no pun intended)

Currently i have 17 x 8 + 15 up front with a 215/45/17 and 17 x 9 + 21 at the rear with a 235/45/17.

With the 17 x 9 + 21 on the front i would have 19mm less inner clearence and it would extend an extra 7mm.

Mine sits pretty nice at the front with -3 camber thanks to the R33 LCA's and theres no scrubbing even with the lock spacers. I reckon with a 7mm slip on spacer the front would sit perfect. So with the 17 x 9 +21 i think it would be a good fit (inner clearence may be a bit of an issue?) but i would think you would have to run a 214/45/17 up front for more clearence. The rears sit pretty nice with -1 degree of camber.

I have moded my guards a little, but that was only to fit the wheels when i first got them as the wheels came with a 50 profile tyre on the 17" rims.

I realise this post is a bit pointless without any pics, so i'll try to get around to taking some and might even put the rears on the front just for fun.

To give you a bit of an idea, compared to stock gts-t wheels, you wil have 14mm less inner clearance and the wheel will extend out an extra 50mm.

Edited by White GTS-T
  • 3 years later...

I run 17x9+30 all round (R33 GTR rims) 235/45/17 tyers

the front have a 5mm spacer on them and about -2 deg of camber no issues there.

the rears are a diffrent story I have -1deg of camber and had to have the rear gurads sit about 10-15mm above the top of the tire

as on heavy bumps it scrubed (rims sits out about 3mm or so from the gurad). once i rolled the guards i was fine to have the car at any hight.

If you're only running a 235 tyre, why not just get a rim to fit? Stretched tyres arent a great thing anyway..

But to be helpful, you will most likely need to roll/flare the rear guards.. On most r33's, and a friend who had a r32 with 20's (lol.), some guard work was needed. To be fair though, most were only just "legal" in terms of ride height.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...