Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hahahahahaheheheheheHAHAHAHAHAAHEHEHEHEHE...

*phew*

for a second there I thought you were thinking we could actually get a manual for these jap things!?? :D

Seriously, I think some guys in NZ did a translation a while back of the full manual. Anyone else remember hearing about that?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24995-owners-manual/#findComment-531132
Share on other sites

Yea man theres one in the SDU forum, i just thought theres one here in Perth floatin around, just wanna save myself the hassle from gettin on from over there.

Anywayz tell us if ya can get one from perth, cause i'm extremely intersted (yea yea i know its hard to find) just in case ight...

laterz...:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24995-owners-manual/#findComment-532610
Share on other sites

The workshop manuals for the R33 GTS-t do exist but the price for them is out of this world, over AUD $800.00. I have to do some more checking to find the site that offered these manuals but it was from place that I was able to get meself a band new copy of a owners manual. I will keep in touch.

:headshot:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24995-owners-manual/#findComment-534388
Share on other sites

http://www.jpnz.co.nz/home.html

english translated workshop manuals and owners handbooks for most imports

R33 owners handbook: http://www.jpnz.co.nz/xcart/customer/produ...12&cat=8&page=3

i haven't got one but may do soon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24995-owners-manual/#findComment-534919
Share on other sites

I received a manual (copy of the JPNZ one) when my car got complied, so perhaps try some of the guys that do compliance work in Perth as they should have them.

The retail price for the JPNZ ones are around $50.

The manuals are okay but don't really say too much - typical owner's handbook.

Cheers, Al

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24995-owners-manual/#findComment-541705
Share on other sites

I got one from the NZ place when I had my old GTSt. They are useless except for a laugh at some of the translation... The only good thing they told me was how to close my sunroof if the buttons stop working....

Alas I left it in the car when I sold it so hopefully MattyB got it otherwise the car dealer is a crook and pinched it!!! ha ha ha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24995-owners-manual/#findComment-542142
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It turns out that Setrab make a fan specifically for the oil cooler which is great and I've installed it with minimal swearing. I removed my 2x 12in push fans from the front of my aircon condenser and wired them into this. My main thermo fans kick on when I use the aircon anyway and would effectively already be working as puller fans through the condensor which is infront of the rad. The push fans (understandably) didn't really do much in the config they were previously in so now they're out. Now we're on to the "Oil fan doesn't really do much either!". Yes I'll duct it next if it does nothing in heavy use which it shouldn't. But hey, the object exists and fits great and is cool. Let me have this. The car is still in the "do my fittings leak oil now? do my wheels actually rub?" phase. I did a spirited drive on them and didn't hear or feel anything. Then I got back home and noticed there were grind marks on the inside of the rims, though I couldn't see where they were touching I got out the grinder and attacked the suspects. Note: I do not know how to use a grinder. Then I realised I had dragged my new rims across my concrete driveway before I did this drive. I didn't think I had damage at that time when I briefly looked...... but remembered this occurred after I did all the angle grinding. The grinding on the wheels in some very specific spots. It's not around the whole rim for example, which lines up with dragging it across concrete more than hitting a suspension component for even 1 full rotation. So everything is currently painted and taped up and I need to test it some more to see if it really IS rubbing, but from inside the car it doesn't feel like it is. In other news I attempted to do a before and after comparison of the heads/cam upgrade thing. Dynos lie, everything is in different measurements. Here is the data from the sandown back straight. Car go faster than before. Vroom vroom.
    • Here's my base ignition. +3 correction to redline when shooting water/meth which is always on. Looking at my old ignition table, I should be able to add 1-2 degree's next time I'm on the dyno.  Let me know your thoughts. 
    • Given what I know now - same haha, but this was 12 years ago with second hand 740cc Nismo injectors in my S15 daily, I was too busy hunting elsewhere for the issue to even look at the injectors, running through some cleaner was a happy coincidence haha
    • Not a terrible idea. But if I ever had concerns that my injectors were sufficiently dirty to be causing me a problem, they would be out of the engine and onto the actual injector cleaner/testing bench.
    • Run some injector cleaner through it I had a similar issue that plagued me for months, even tried replacing the cat. If one or more injectors are blocked up the ecu sees ping so pulls timing and makes the tune rich overall, you'll see black smoke coming out of the exhaust and like me assume it's running rich but it could only be one or two cylinders  $10 bottle of injector cleaner and the next time I hit boost it pumped out a huge plume of black smoke, cleared the blockage and then ran great, if that's not the issue it's only a cheap thing to try haha  
×
×
  • Create New...