Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Went to gippsland yesterday from frankston, didnt miss a beat for the whole 340k's, even got 10.5ltrs/100k's, this morning i started it and it run fine, decided to work on it instaed of going to spend money so i turned it off, been having problems since i installed my lcd nismo cluster, it says im doing half the speed im actually doing so i thought i would put the old one back in and see if that fixed it, before i put the facia back on i took it for a quick spin, as soon as i started it i relised something was wrong, it idled like a pig and every time you reved it there was a cloud of black smoke, took it for a quick spin after stalling 3 times trying to get it out of the drive way, stalled a couple of more times whilst slowing for speed humps and still putting out black smoke.

Question is what is behind the cluster that could cause this to happen?

Took out the plugs and attached pics, they look bad but im assuming it is more from un burnt fuel.

How do i check my coils and ignitor to make sure they are working properly?

post-27276-1230272435_thumb.jpg

post-27276-1230272506_thumb.jpg

This is a video of it idling.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZunvUc8ihmU

Edited by W0rp3D

yep swapped them back and it still has the same problem, i then removed it all together and still the same problem, cleaned everything up (couldnt get new spark plugs today so i just put the old ones back in) and put it back together, run about 90% good untill i touched the accelerator then it went back to shit, will get new plugs tomorrow and see if its just that, im assuming its possibly igniter and/or coil packs but would like some more info on testing before i replace them.

Worked out how to do it, code comes up as 2 long flashes and one short one which i believe is 21?

Now i just have to figure out what it means, all the threads i find does not have a definate cause of a 21 fault code, seems to be a cas, igniter or coil pack problem, any one know which one is the best to start with?

Just replaced the cas it it would not start at all, sounds like its trying to kick on a couple of cylinders but just wont turn start, put the old one back on that the engine would start with but run like shyte and now it wont start with that one either.

Any one have any ideas, gotta be someone out there with an idea??

  • 2 weeks later...

I have since gotten the car to start, i have replaced the afm, coil paks and ecu with no change, still trying to get a hold of an igniter.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Does anyone know how to read fault codes, when i first did it the fault code came up as 2 long flash's and one short one, i assumed this meant 21, after looking at the manual the way they describe it is that it means 12, have attached a page from the manual.

post-27276-1231540381_thumb.jpg

i would check your afm, swap it out if you can or even just make sure its plugged in. Check all the wires are fine where they go into the plug, sometimes they ge bent or stretched to much and you need to solder them in

i would check your afm, swap it out if you can or even just make sure its plugged in. Check all the wires are fine where they go into the plug, sometimes they ge bent or stretched to much and you need to solder them in

That was one of the first things i changed, played around with the wires and there was no change, unplugged it, surged for a second or so and died, woud not start again, plugged it back in and it fired up but still ran like shit.

no, fuses didnt cross my mind, what one would cause these sorts of troubles?

Just bought a fuel pressure gauge to see if the reg is screwed, any idea what the fuel rail pressure should be?

Got the fuel pressure gauge in, on idle it sits at 38psi when reving goes to around 44psi, videobelow shows the gauge and the smoke it is putting out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m880G2xlWhc

Edited by W0rp3D

i dont know if this would help or not but when one of my cooler pipes came off thats how my car ran but it wouldnt idle at all it would just die. it looks like car is geting fuel so thats fine. just check all the fuse. there should be a bunch next to the accelerator pedal and the box in the engine bay. check it all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...