Jump to content
SAU Community

Turbo Timers That Work With Viper Alarm Systems

Mushroom

By Mushroom,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

Mushroom Veteran

Mushroom

Posted
Posted

Hey Guys,

I am looking at getting a new viper alarm installed in the new year but also want a turbo timer that will work with it. I want to be able to give the installer everything so he doesn't have to wait for anything.

I am partial to the HKS range of turbo timers only because I have had one previously but can anyone tell me what ones I can look at that will intergrate properly.

Cheers

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

troy,

in short none of them do. adding one to a DEI unit is a major pain. especially if its going on your purple thing :happy:

flick me a PM and I'll explain.

JDMPWR Rising Star

JDMPWR

Posted
Posted

Hey mate,

i actually sell vipers and as the previous person said. it's a pain which is true. it's actually advised that you dont add an aftermarket turbo timer to your viper and just use their inbuilt turbo timer. less headaches.. does exactly the same thing. you can adjust it in 5second increments if i remeber right.

  • 1 month later...
fmlycar Proficient

fmlycar

Posted
Posted

Here's how I fixed this issue:

The guys that installed my alarm told me that the yellow wire on the (viper) alarm harness was what sensed if the engine was running or not. They suggested to cut this wire, but after I did, the alarm thought the engine was never on, so it would start arming while I was driving. Obviously this wasn't a practical solution... So I busted out my voltmeter. What I found was that the yellow wire has 14V running through it when the engine is on, and 0 when the engine is off. I needed to find something that was 14V when the engine is on, and 0 when the key is removed and hook that up to the yellow wire input of the alarm. I tested the wires in the TT harness, but they didn't change when the key was removed, only when the engine turned off. Then somehow my eyes rested on the parking brake wire...

Testing showed that the parking brake wire was 0 when it was pulled up, and 14V when it was released. If I hooked that up to the yellow wire of the alarm, when the parking brake was pulled, the alarm would think the engine had been turned off, and would activate as soon as you opened and closed the doors (I have auto-lock and auto-activate on).

So I ran a wire from the gray wire of the parking brake sensor to the yellow input of the alarm, and it works perfectly, assuming of course that you pull the hand brake every time you get out of your car... The best thing was that the wires I tapped into were in the alarm harness and the TT harness so I didn't have to touch any factory wiring...

Hope this helps...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Erelyes
      Ceramic turbine damage to engine - what did yours do?

      By Erelyes · Posted

      Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • GTSBoy
      RB25 Drama's

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Julsmadrid
      RB25 Drama's

      By Julsmadrid · Posted

      Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...