Jump to content
SAU Community

Crap Radio Reception!

SHIZNT

By SHIZNT,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

SHIZNT Collaborator

SHIZNT

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ok guys i know I'm probably gonna get flamed for this but I've searched and havn't been able to find a straight answer..

I finally got sick of the Pioneer headunit which came in the Stagea which was in Japanese and CD player didn't work. So for Christmas my misses said she would buy me a new headunit so I took the risk and purchased a cheap Eonon E1012 DVD head unit which i got around to installing today and seems to work fine and for a close to $300 if i get 12months out of it I'm not complaining.

PIC_0001.jpg

PIC_0002.jpg

Radio is able to pickup stations fine but as soon as i start driving it drops in and out or has interfearance. All wires are wired up ok except for a blue wire which has a tag that says something about antenna on it. Is this wire ok to connect to the amp control wire on the headunit? Does it require a fuse for safety of doing damage to my headunit or should i connect it to something else?

Edited by SHIZNT
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250858-crap-radio-reception/
Share on other sites
infiltrator Community Regular

infiltrator

Posted
Posted

where did you get this from? i have been looking for cheap touch screen h/u for a while... as for the blue antenna wire, i wired it up to the antenna amp, the radio reception was 100x better, altho i have only one of the two working at the moment.

SHIZNT Collaborator

SHIZNT

Posted
  • Author
Posted
where did you get this from? i have been looking for cheap touch screen h/u for a while... as for the blue antenna wire, i wired it up to the antenna amp, the radio reception was 100x better, altho i have only one of the two working at the moment.

Got it off eBay mate.. so you wired the blue wire up to the aeropro antenna amp?

SHIZNT Collaborator

SHIZNT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just went and pulled the headunit back out and i have a AERPRO FM Expander which connects back the the loom with the yellow/black wire. From the AERPRO FM Expander i have a red wire which connects to the antenna wire on the back of my headunit.

The wire which connects to nothing is a blue wire with two connecters off it that has a tag that says something along the lines of:

System control (Male Connector)

Auto Antenna (Female Connector)

Now should i snip the female connecter off and hard wire it to my Amp remote wire on my headunit? Will these fix my reception issues?

SHIZNT Collaborator

SHIZNT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Think i might have just fixed it...

I tried connecting the Amp remote wire to the blue wire to see if it would power up the antenna and improve reception but no difference..

Then i noticed i have an adapter that the Japanese 2 prong aerial connects to which converts to the normal single prong that goes in the FM Expander...

At the moment I'm at work and the car is parked in a underground multilevel car park... I turned the headunit on running through the FM Expander still.. no reception... removed the adapter from the FM Expander and plugged it directly into the back of the headunit.. turned it back on and BINGO! Nearly perfect reception.. Its still not 100% but thats most likely due to all the concrete being in the underground parking.. Will see how its goes on the way home..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...