Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got mine from UAS.It weighs about 10kg less than standard.the vents help under bonnet temps.Its not full CF but it looks rice nice saves me weight and heat.Plus i dont get stone chips.Driven it in rain through car washes ect and had no prob with water causing faults.Been pulled over by the cops in vic a few times and havnt been questioned on bonnet at all.Heres a pic of it

The only thing I would say about vents is that they MAY allow ingress of water if you run open coils (ie. minus the "Nissan Twin Cam 24 Valve" cover).

I realise that this is popular for people with older coils or Splitfire D1's. Water and coils do not mix.

For me a carbon bonnet is coming. I sorta put myself in a situation where I need one so I'll see how this goes.

T.

if you dont get the one with the air vent for the filter eg. series one bonnet, the no water will ge to the filter!! and if you do have the series 2 bonnet most cai will no thave opening on top to allow water to access the filter!!!

if i had the money i would get one asap, as well as the CF boot from Rezz!!!!

I got my bodykit being sprayed and fitted over the next 3 wks which has the cf wing blade. I think the cf bonnet would compliment it nicely although I need some 18's badddly.

so when they say they are not full carbon, then is it just the top section is carbon with the fibre glass frame? is the one from UAS like that? what about the one from japan? they should be like that too, so tell me what's the difference.

The difference is materials, quality and price.

Some of the 100,000+ yen Carbon bonnets on sale in Japan are a full carbon fibre bonnet panel, with an FRP skeleton frame underneath, meaning that when you open the bonnet, you can see carbon fibre weaving underneath. Legitimate 6-8kg bizness.

But most of them are an FRP "under panel/frame", with a carbon fibre "top panel". Cheap, look good, and do the job.

We lay carbon fiber for the body, wings, farings etc at uni, and its good but not as strong as you might think.

Carbon fiber is strong to a degree, but its very brittle.

It is highly illegal to have it on your car, as you know both fibreglass and carbon fiber shatters on impact, and its quite possible that the carbon fiber can snap in the middle and shear off into the windscreen, or break at the hinges and come into the windscreen. I wouldnt want to rearend someone with a *RP bonnet.

have a look at www.wreckedexotics.com for some really farked up accidents involving mainly italian exotic cars and a few 300zx/imports etc. Visualise what a *RP bonnet would do in the same crash.

Ricers argue that its good for weight saving, well i say run with 10 litres less petrol and you got your weight saving for nothing.

Good for venting underbonnet air no doubt, but i think some funky ducting in and out of the engine bay might do just as good. You could even run a small thermo fan with some ducts and have it comming out the underbody on the non exhuast side.

Its a show thing, but it comes at a high price, both in money and defect/accident hazard.

We lay carbon fiber for the body, wings, farings etc at uni, and its good but not as strong as you might think.

Carbon fiber is strong to a degree, but its very brittle.

It is highly illegal to have it on your car, as you know both fibreglass and carbon fiber shatters on impact, and its quite possible that the carbon fiber can snap in the middle and shear off into the windscreen, or break at the hinges and come into the windscreen. I wouldnt want to rearend someone with a *RP bonnet.

have a look at www.wreckedexotics.com for some really farked up accidents involving mainly italian exotic cars and a few 300zx/imports etc. Visualise what a *RP bonnet would do in the same crash.

Ricers argue that its good for weight saving, well i say run with 10 litres less petrol and you got your weight saving for nothing.

Good for venting underbonnet air no doubt, but i think some funky ducting in and out of the engine bay might do just as good. You could even run a small thermo fan with some ducts and have it comming out the underbody on the non exhuast side.

Its a show thing, but it comes at a high price, both in money and defect/accident hazard.

BTW, wtf is that "see a zed drift" thing on the UAS website.... thats not a drift, try dumping the clutch after the apex and smashing your deep dish rim in the gutter. farking retard!

Originally posted by MattyB

cf boot from rezz ?  wtf. i want one. as well as matching doors. mmmmm

Unfortunantly, you`d be looking at $1850 PER DOOR:headspin:, and $1250 for the Bootlid. But I can assure you, those doors are 6.0kg 100% Carbon Fibre...

  • 3 weeks later...

hate to be one to bring up yesterday , but i thought it easier to drop this question here , from what i can understand there are like 3 versions of the bonnet going around Type 1 , Type 2 and Jun , can someone verify this ?

T2 being the one i posted earlier ?

btw. I honestly don't think these 'carbon fiber' bonnets we get here are really baked in an oven (autoclave?) - real carbon needs to be laid down in a weave and cured by heat.

And yes I have one of these because you have to represent the rice :D

T.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...