Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

China/Jap/Brand/NoName?

depends dude, how much you want to pay and do you have a budget and what do you want to do in the future?

you have a workshop carrying out your work, that's why they're there, ask them dude they'll give you great advice

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251396-heyy/#findComment-4351974
Share on other sites

China/Jap/Brand/NoName?

depends dude, how much you want to pay and do you have a budget and what do you want to do in the future?

you have a workshop carrying out your work, that's why they're there, ask them dude they'll give you great advice

he told me 2 grand thats why im still lookin around

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251396-heyy/#findComment-4351986
Share on other sites

heyy i got my car dyno last week all i got is a 3inch cat bak zorst pod and 12 psi

how much power do you want?

- Finish exhaust (dump pipe and front pipe) + remove cat or buy highflow cat

- FMIC kit

- safc or similar (depends how much u want to spend, cheap go piggyback aka safc, lots go full aftermarket $$$ or ROM-tune of stock ecu)

- fuel pump (really only needed if yours is old and not working the best)

- Rb25 turbo

then retune, the rb25 turbo will give you relatively good power without too much lag.

to reduce cost fit the items yourself, to help keep cost down you can buy china brand fmic, exhaust parts the difference between china and brand name is relatively small in those parts

enjoy and drive safe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251396-heyy/#findComment-4351993
Share on other sites

how much power do you want?

- Finish exhaust (dump pipe and front pipe) + remove cat or buy highflow cat

- FMIC kit

- safc or similar (depends how much u want to spend, cheap go piggyback aka safc, lots go full aftermarket $$$ or ROM-tune of stock ecu)

- fuel pump (really only needed if yours is old and not working the best)

- Rb25 turbo

then retune, the rb25 turbo will give you relatively good power without too much lag.

to reduce cost fit the items yourself, to help keep cost down you can buy china brand fmic, exhaust parts the difference between china and brand name is relatively small in those parts

my goal is around 260 hp atw

enjoy and drive safe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251396-heyy/#findComment-4352000
Share on other sites

my goal is around 260 hp atw

the rb25 turbo should get you close to that, and is the best price turbo to get you around that power ($200-$500), or else you could look at something like a hks gt2510 or gt2530

give this topic a read

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...no-t103095.html

mods + power for rb20det should give u a fair idea what you can make with that mods

Edited by [Michael]
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251396-heyy/#findComment-4352008
Share on other sites

the rb25 turbo should get you close to that, and is the best price turbo to get you around that power ($200-$500), or else you could look at something like a hks gt2510 or gt2530

give this topic a read

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...no-t103095.html

mods + power for rb20det should give u a fair idea what you can make with that mods

thanks for ur help bro my goal is too hav a low 13 sec street car

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251396-heyy/#findComment-4352012
Share on other sites

i don't think 260hp atw will achieve low 13's? aim for 300hp maybe?

get Vi-Pec ECU, 650cc injectors (sorry was thinking of RB25) maybe go a bit smaller?, 040/044, FMIC and a turbo upgrade... all the basic bolts on and you should achieve 300hp i would say

estimate though of course, and with a really good tune... with those mods you'll push a fair bit more than 12psi safely to help you get more than the 260 you're expecting

Edited by hoony
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251396-heyy/#findComment-4352031
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Yea, that is what I was getting at in my ramblings too. The nismo one actually is a 1.5 way and a 1 way. They don't do a *2* way because a true *2* way would have equal ramp angles. Or is that a true 1.5 way? Realistically I think a "1.5 way" does not actually exist. A diff can either lock in two directions or one. It also doesn't help that a LOT of people in Australia speak about 1.5 way diffs are referring to their 1 way diff.
    • Well, the trouble with that ^^ is: The configuration shown is absolutely a 1-way, not a 1.5-way. There is no way that a 1.5-way can be said to offer LSD action only on acceleration. If Nismo cannot get that right, then it is impossible to believe their documentation. That ^ is not a 1.5 way setup. That is a 1-way.   And so now I have allowed all doubts to flourish and have gone back to look at the MotoIQ video. I originally made the mistake of believing him when he said "this is a 1.5-way" at the ~6:10 mark. Because what he did was take the gear assembly out of the 2-way opening and just rotate it one place to the left to drop it into the 1-way opening. When he dropped it in there, the cam was "backwards" compared to the correct orientation shown in all other photos of that config. The flat shold have been facing the 1° ramp side of the opening, not the 55° ramp side. And I thought, "gee that's cute", but I was concerned at the time, when he put the other ring back on, that the gap between the rings looked like it was wider then in the 2-way config. And then I said a lot of things in my long post on Tuesday that could only make sense if the guy from MotoIQ was correct about what he'd done. BUT... I have now done my homework. I grabbed a frame of the video with the 2-way config, and then grabbed another with the "1.5-way" config, snipped out the cam and opening of that frame and just pasted it direct on top of the 2-way config. I scaled it so that the triangular opening was almost exactly the same height in both. AND.... the gap between the plates is wider with the cam installed in the triangualr opening backwards. That is.... it cannot go together that way. There would be massive force on the plates all the time, if you could even reassemble it.  So, My statement on the matter? The Nismo diff is actually only a 2-way and 1-way. There is no 1.5-way option in it, regardless of what they say. Here's a photo of a real 1.5-way ramp opening from Cusco (along with the 1 way option). And the full set of 1 through 2 way options from their racing diff, which is not same-same as what we'd typically be using, but...the cams work the same. A little blurry, but it comes from this Cusco doc, which is quite helpful. AND.... Cusco do in fact do what I suggested would be sensible, which is to have rings that do 1 and 1.5, and 1.5 and 2. Separately.  
    • Welcome Adam. Car looks great!
    • "With a 1.5-WAY, the LSD is effective only during acceleration."
    • Well it wasn't as easy as I thought.... and it also wasn't in my original manual which I did end up finding. They discuss the process in the Nismo catalogue though and it requires slight machining. Page 145.  NISMO PARTS CATALOGUE 2020
×
×
  • Create New...