Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

engine internals

rb25det

built 12 months ago but done low kays ,consists of

acid cleaned and prepped block, new welsh plugs etc

balanced crank to suit new rods and pistons

Eagle H beam rods

ACL Forged pistons

Jun oil drive collar

ARP crank, big end, and head studs

N1 oil pump

new R33 water pump

new tensioners and nissan belt

tomei oil retrictors

head rebuilt with tomei poncams

tomei exhaust cam wheel

new NGK iridium's

Bolt ons

ETM high mount manifold HPC coated black

gt3582r-iw with exhaust housing HPC coated black

choice of either 18 psi or 24 psi actuator.

turbo beenie

ss braided lines both feed and return.

3 inch dump with 2 inch wastegate pipe all in 316 stainless

5 inch cat

PFC with inbuilt Boost controller

600 x 300 x 80 ASE front mount

brand new bosch q45 AFM

4 inch stainless intake

FPR with gauge

044 intank setup.

Trans

fully built box from MV Automatics

2800 high stall

stg 2 shift kit

includes all new custum clutches and kevlar band etc

this is my wifes car so was only ever boosted properly on the dyno.

either seperate for parts or sell car whole.

open to offers

Hey mate

I know you probably wanna sell the car whole, but would be interested in the Transmission if you do seperate it. Pm me details on price, locatation etc.

Cheers

Brendan

Hey mate

I know you probably wanna sell the car whole, but would be interested in the Transmission if you do seperate it. Pm me details on price, locatation etc.

Cheers

Brendan

no worries i will happily seperate the car if i can find buyers for a few of the major parts like manifold / turbo set up, engine , trans etc.once the big things are allocated i will strip all the parts and list prices for all the remaining mods.

I'm interested in some of the items but I'm located in the USA...do you have a problem with international postage? I have a FedEx account if that makes things easier for you. Thanks!

-Blake :P

rb25det

built 12 months ago but done low kays ,consists of

acid cleaned and prepped block, new welsh plugs etc

balanced crank to suit new rods and pistons

Eagle H beam rods

ACL Forged pistons

Jun oil drive collar

ARP crank, big end, and head studs

N1 oil pump

new R33 water pump

new tensioners and nissan belt

tomei oil retrictors

Short motor $3500

head rebuilt with tomei poncams $1500

tomei exhaust cam wheel (not installed) $200

new NGK iridium's

Bolt ons

ETM high mount manifold HPC coated black $1000

gt3582r-iw with exhaust housing HPC coated black $1500

choice of either 18 psi or 24 psi actuator. $100 each

turbo beenie $75

ss braided lines both feed and return. $100

3 inch dump with 2 inch wastegate pipe all in 316 stainless $200

5 inch cat $150

PFC with inbuilt Boost controller $1000

600 x 300 x 80 ASE front mount $700

brand new bosch q45 AFM $300

4 inch stainless intake $100

FPR with gauge $150

044 intank setup. $200

Trans

fully built box from MV Automatics

2800 high stall

stg 2 shift kit

large trans cooler

includes all new custum clutches and kevlar band etc $2200

rb25det

built 12 months ago but done low kays ,consists of

acid cleaned and prepped block, new welsh plugs etc

balanced crank to suit new rods and pistons

Eagle H beam rods

ACL Forged pistons

Jun oil drive collar

ARP crank, big end, and head studs

N1 oil pump

new R33 water pump

new tensioners and nissan belt

tomei oil retrictors

Short motor $3500

head rebuilt with tomei poncams $1500

tomei exhaust cam wheel (not installed) $200

new NGK iridium's

Bolt ons

ETM high mount manifold HPC coated black $1000

gt3582r-iw with exhaust housing HPC coated black $1500

choice of either 18 psi or 24 psi actuator. $100 each

turbo beenie $75

ss braided lines both feed and return. $100

3 inch dump with 2 inch wastegate pipe all in 316 stainless $200

5 inch cat $150

PFC with inbuilt Boost controller $1000

600 x 300 x 80 ASE front mount $700

brand new bosch q45 AFM $300

4 inch stainless intake $100

FPR with gauge $150

044 intank setup. $200

Trans

fully built box from MV Automatics

2800 high stall

stg 2 shift kit

large trans cooler

includes all new custum clutches and kevlar band etc $2200

PM sent

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...