Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

i need help! was driving the other day and my girlfriend told me that there was somthing dripping on her foot on the passenger side footwell of my 33 GTS-T

A closer inspection found that it was coolant. i checked the radiator, had no pressure in it when hot and the level had dropped considerably

can someone please give me some info on the cause. i have a feeling that its the heater core but im not sure

also on that note, where is the heater core located on this model and how do i get it out?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252141-r33-gts-t-heater/
Share on other sites

hey guys

i need help! was driving the other day and my girlfriend told me that there was somthing dripping on her foot on the passenger side footwell of my 33 GTS-T

A closer inspection found that it was coolant. i checked the radiator, had no pressure in it when hot and the level had dropped considerably

can someone please give me some info on the cause. i have a feeling that its the heater core but im not sure

also on that note, where is the heater core located on this model and how do i get it out?

cheers

hi mate your heater core is behind the dash inside the car ,and it is a shi...t job to change it ..mine done the same thing ..all i done was pull the 2 hoses off that run to the heater which you will find in the engine bay ..just pull them off and either join them together .or put bungs in them so water doesnt get to the heater core .just means you wont have a heater ...thats the easy fand cheap fix ..

Yep, almost positive it's your heater core, it's a common problem. If you do a search there is a tutorial on how to remove the heater core, it's a prick of a job, but can be done in a day. Problem is finding a 2nd hand replacement core, or putting up with no heating :(

ah k then

cheers for the help guys

might have to join the pipes in that case coz it sounds liek a crap job:(

and im guessing a new core would be fairly expensive to

It's easy enough to bypass, but that will still leave a fair bit of water in the core already, and you want to be careful it doesn't lead to ruting your passenger footwell.

Yep

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/He...WTO-t32611.html

Apparently a replacement heater core isn't that expensive

I got a replacement from my local natrad dealer ( www.natrad.com.au ) for 225, it was the 300zx heater core - I had to take mine out, show him it, then he measured it up and figured out it was the 300zx one.
Be aware that if you bypass the heater and if you get a yellow sticker, that will be one of the things the inspector will make you fix.

thats one reason why you just pull the hoses off ,and put bungs in them so water cant get in the heater core but still looks like its hooked up .and that solvex that problem unless they check it .

If you block them off then the water cant flow like the system was designed. I would much rather loop them and keep the system working as was intended.

I think it would be defectable if the inspector was a c**t as you wouldnt be able to defrost your windscreen on cold mornings.

I have replaced one before and it wasnt that bad of a job. Keep in mind I had taken a dash out before so a lot of it wasnt new to me. Also I used an R32 heater core and it fit in the R33 just fine....which might open up your second hand market a bit

mmm yea i will join them and keep it flowing:)

ah right that sounds good

i like cheaper things lol

i wonder though...... might be a bit hit and miss with second hand whether its going to have the same problem or not?

Yeah but I would rather replace 2-3 second hand ones than pay the price nissan would want for a new one. That said, I have never got a quote from them so it might be worth calling just for a laugh.

You may even have some luck taking the old core out and bringing it to a radiator service center to get it rebuilt/re sealed

Yeah but I would rather replace 2-3 second hand ones than pay the price nissan would want for a new one. That said, I have never got a quote from them so it might be worth calling just for a laugh.

You may even have some luck taking the old core out and bringing it to a radiator service center to get it rebuilt/re sealed

haha think id rather pay the extra whatever it is than pull my dash out 4 times lol

doesnt look like much fun from the drawings and tutorials and stuff

mmmm ye thats an idea ay

should look into it

lol yes and my cruiser has gone 3 years with no heater as well :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...