Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Before you decide on a clutch, speak to Keith at KB Clutch Engineering at Penrith on (02) 4732 1692. There are others on this forum who I have also directed his way and they too think he's brilliant.

He knew I was looking for a good launching clutch for the GTR and my concerns with my wanting to ensure the clutch was the weakest link in my drive train. He agreed and basically told me that the only thing a twin/triple clutch will give me over one he would custom build for me was 'bragging rights at the pub'. He then proceeded to build me a spectacular launching (brass button) clutch for under $500... and those who have seen her launch at the hillclimb will know what I'm talking about. This is at the same time that some local businesses were trying to talk me into a $2300 clutch!!!

He will build it according to the way you want to drive it and won't rip you off. He also rang us while we were putting it in and gave us some tips. I'm pretty sure that he also does the work there if you don't want to put it in yourself.

The Evo people also use Keith for their race clutches... just ask Martin Vitaris.

If nothing else, just talk to Keith before you decide. He's a very genuine person to deal with.

Before you decide on a clutch, speak to Keith at KB Clutch Engineering at Penrith on (02) 4732 1692. There are others on this forum who I have also directed his way and they too think he's brilliant.

Keith may do a good clutch at a great price, but if you ever try the difference between Michelle's clutch and my one, mine is so much lighter and easier to use. Saying that it was built for launches at 350rwkw and it cost $1300, a big difference in price. Your choice.

Trojan did my clutch replacement but I got the clutch myself.

My twin plate is pretty light and easy to use... If you ever get sick of the jittery noise they make just install big cams to drown them out :)

I have an Ogura, was hard to find one in stock in Aus but was lucky to find an almost brand new one at a Jap wrecking yard.

Keith may do a good clutch at a great price, but if you ever try the difference between Michelle's clutch and my one, mine is so much lighter and easier to use. Saying that it was built for launches at 350rwkw and it cost $1300, a big difference in price. Your choice.

Trojan did my clutch replacement but I got the clutch myself.

Like I said though, Keith custom built this one to my launch specs, not street use. That's what I wanted at that time, but if I had said make it soft and easy for the street, he would have. He really knows his stuff. So please don't think he only builds clutches for launching, he quizzed me for half an hour before he made his final recommendation, now that stock GTR is doing split times similar to my Formula Holden which can get from 0 to 100 in 2.7 seconds and only weights 600kg.

Autotech just replaced my clutch and I'm really happy with it. That's the second one Ed has put in for me, first one was before he moved from Integra (way back when I could have a little weak one!!)

If you dont mind me asking GTRKat, how much did they charge you for replacing your clutch?

It was no extra charge as my engine was out and they had to put a clutch in anyway :P

Give the boys a call and I'm sure they'd be able to tell you easily enough.

I gave autotech a call and I got quoted $780 + gearbox oil. Is this what everyone else is paying around?

I gave autotech a call and I got quoted $780 + gearbox oil. Is this what everyone else is paying around?

that doesn't sound too bad even without a clutch... its a shit of a job, very hard to get to. Mark invented new swear words while he was trying to get into some tight places with my car.

Like I said though, Keith custom built this one to my launch specs, not street use. That's what I wanted at that time, but if I had said make it soft and easy for the street, he would have. He really knows his stuff. So please don't think he only builds clutches for launching, he quizzed me for half an hour before he made his final recommendation, now that stock GTR is doing split times similar to my Formula Holden which can get from 0 to 100 in 2.7 seconds and only weights 600kg.

I should have said mine was also designed for the same specifications except for a car making a lot more power, and being Jim berry it was a lot longer then 30 mins on the phone :-). Trojan commented on it being a surprising good clutch feel.

As for the clutch replacement if that cost is not including a clutch, call Trojan. Mine was a bit less then that. More like $550 from memory????

As for the clutch replacement if that cost is not including a clutch, call Trojan. Mine was a bit less then that. More like $550 from memory????

I went past Torjan and they were closed! Must be on holidays eh? Does anyone know when they are getting back?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...