Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: 99 R34 GTT

Location: Gold Coast

Item Condition: 12800km’s, extremely clean interior, great paintwork. Drives exelently!

Reason for Selling: Cant afford repayments.

Price: $26000.

Extra Info: This car is not a wind back. It still has that new car smell! I suspect it was a demo car for a HKS dealer or something as most of the parts are HKS. All the bushes and undercarriage are in great condition, all the belts look new, No oil leaks, no oil spilt from servicing ect, engine feels fresh and no strange noises, same for gearbox and diff and no wear marks on the interior at all. This truly is the best example of a 34 I have ever seen.

This car still smells like new and is one of the cleanest, unabused 34's I have ever seen. First to see with the money will buy!

Im sure there I have missed and I will update once I find out more about the turbo and computer. I will take better pictures of the glitter because it is absolutely blinding in daylight. I will be very sad to see this go but my financial troubles are forcing me to sell.

No joy rides. I am happy to drive unless a deposit is paid.

Mods:

Full respray with standard navy paint with rainbow glitter that must be seen to be appreciated.

Full HKS body kit.

HKS front mount intercooler. 100mm core.

HKS intake.

HKS front pipe.

Gready electronic boost controller set to 12psi. Currently switched off till tune is checked.

Unknown turbo but suspect must be bigger/highflowed. Will investigate soon.

Unknown computer but must be changed 7700rpm.

Kakimoto 3"cat back exhaust.

GAB coilovers,

17's with 235's on the front and 255's on the back.

Turbo timer wired into the dash that calculates shutdown on revs and time on.

Contact Details: Dave 0424 506 009 or [email protected] for email/msn

Pictures

4784196.jpg

4784193.jpg

4784192.jpg

4784190.jpg

4784188.jpg

4784187.jpg

4784186.jpg

4784184.jpg

4784183.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252496-r34-gtt-99-model-with-glitter-paint/
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
×
×
  • Create New...