Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mine are off at the moment, but I am waiting to reassemble the rail replacement kit. We should have these available to purchase in the next couple of months: I will post when they are ready... :P

sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet. so basically, pull off the roof lining, unbolt the roof racks, put in (your) rail replacements and bobs your uncle?

how much you looking at selling these for roughly?

will defintely have to ge tone off ya when they are made :P

cost is not yet finalised, but they'll be reasonable. Remember, you also have to fill the holes left in the roof by the rails themselves: they screw through the roof metal... Thr ails are HEAVY! wait 'til you have them off: must do wonders for the centre of gravity... Will keep you posted as to timeframe/cost, but am expecting to start fitment in the next week or 2....

*edit* Actually, I don't have them in front of me, but i THINK the replacements have screws in them...

  • 6 months later...

Yeah, sorry guys: I was led around in circles for months over this by the body shop in question, and have decided to get mine done the old fashioned way (welded metal). However, I have a proposition for you:

The rail replacement kit I bought from Japan does not fit to my liking, which is where the issues started: we were going to make a hybrid rail replacement using parts of my Japanese kit, and moulded sectios of the factory rail trims (the black strip along the roof that the rail slots into), to create a much better quality product. This was due to the front end of the Jap rail kit sitting way too high at the windscreen end. The issue was that the smash repairs I used for my respray bent the rail trims on my car when they removed them, so we had to supply a donor car.

Long story short: we had everything organised and ready to with 20 mins notice, and were misled, palmed off and lied to for months,because the body shop didn't want the work, but didn't want anyone else to have it either. Once they started telling other Stagea owners that Myself and the donor car's owner were to blame for the delays, I pulled the plug on them, and now refuse to recommend them to anyone.

Anyway, enough of my ranting: let's get down to what I can do for you:

THE PROPOSITION:

I am willing to give my Japanese roof rail replacement kit (which by the way cost in excess of $900 and 6 monthsof my time) to a member of these fine forums for free, ON THE PROVISO THAT THEY FINISH WHAT I STARTED. That is: I want you to use them, and your factory rail trims (if necessary) and come up with moulds so that the rest of the guys and girls on here can purchase rail replacement kits for their own Stags (preferably at close to cost price, but I can't tell a body shop what to charge), if they choose to.

Obviously, I have no way of Policing this myself, so I will have to rely on the honety and integrity of whomever gets them to do the right thing, but damn it: this is such a good group, I want to do something for the benefit of the SAU stag community: you guys have helped me out no end, and I appreciate it!

Here ends my proposal. Let the volunteers make themselves known!

i know a crash repairer in adelaide who has done some work on my stag,im very good mates with his brother.he mite be able to make something up,but he would have to look at the rail kit and work out whats going on,he didnt know what a stagea was till he saw mine.as for providing the kit to others,im more than happy,as long as i can get it done at a reasonable price for everyone

let me know what you think micah,pm me if you like

S1 and S1 are identical, to the best of my knowledge. Anyone got access to Nissan parts catalogue? If not, I'll try giving the local dealership a s1 and a s2 vin, and see what part numbers they come up with...

RBD2 - sounds good, but transport is difficult: they've aready been cut and joined once, so ideally, I'd like to not have to cut them again: If Darrin's guy is able to do it, I'll be able to drive them up to him. If not, then I'll consider whipping out the Jig saw....

Micah I just sent you a text :D

If you are prepared to pay for quality

Cut and paste email form Andrew ate CCubed

Will need a 50% deposit form people $300/600 upfront!!!!

"Ok, I am always nervous of group buys, we would need to get things sorted properly with everyone who is buying these units.

Not to say I don't want to do it, but I've seen these things go pear shaped all too often.

Ok on to your questions,

1. Time frame.

I would need to get the offending pieces down to me here and fit them to my spare car and see what we have to be able to give a realistic time frame.

But ball parking it I would say one week to fit and modify the plug, one week to mould and then one week per pair of products. BUT! that depends on when this order is placed at the moment we have approx a 4 week lead time. So say you got things moving in the next couple of weeks, it would be one six weeks to have the moulds ready to produce parts and then products to follow on weekly intervals from there. That would be with deposit paid orders too, I've been stiffed too many times on things like this, so no deposit no order.

Costs

You would be looking at about $600.00/pr in fibreglass. That's a gelcoat finish ready to be given to a paint shop etc.

For carbon you would b paying $1,200.00/pr.

All our components are vacuum formed and resin infused. This allows us to maintain a extremely high level of quality and finish.

We only use high quality resins as these are much more stable and of a higher structural grade. If you need more information regarding this process please let us know."

Has anyone considered making rail replacements out of strips of auto body mould like found at clark rubber?

ie remove existing rail, buy about 5m of 2in wide rubber body body mould (like the bump strips on the side of cars), cut it to length and stick it to the roof where the rail was?

I think i'll head down to clark rubber to see if they have something suitable

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drive beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • Yeah good luck out there! Will be good to see a mighty GTST going harder than the GTRs
    • i will be there 😁
    • Hello!  i just finished manual swaping my r34 skyline with a r33 rb20de box(RB71C)box  When the car is running it squeaks crazy loud and it was smoking from the gearbox area. The gearbox is fine it was tested. The clutch slave cylinder seems like it doesn't fully releases the clutch. I want to ask if this noise is from the throw out bearing or could it be the clutch assembly or disk att.xFliq87Gzw6kImKBVqDebXkj0fBqymk0JaYeP3_3SlM.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...