Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey pple i have searched and i could not find what i was looking for :P

at moment im running (splitfire coils )0.8mm gap in my r33 heat range 7 and i was thinking of going to 1.1 mm gap....

would these improve my millage and make the car run better ?

or should i stick to what i have now?

i have read of some people running 1.1 gap successfully with upgraded coil packs?

mods are basic filter,zorst,10psi,coller,splitfires

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252709-splitfires-and-11mm-gap/
Share on other sites

i know lines drink a lot but if it was able to run on 1.1 plug i tough would make the car run better and in gain receive extra mileage and power .

just reading thru some spark plug threads people seemed to run a 1.1 gap and got a much better burn of fuel making the car run better.

that's why i asked about the bigger gap

You can run a 1.1mm gap, quite easily.

Even on 10PSi...

I run a 1.1mm gap, and was at one point pushing 18PSi off a big huffer turbo, into a 3.0L block, without an issue of misfire.

I was also running 12PSi on the RB25 setup with a 1.1mm gap, without an issue in the world.

The stock plug gap is set at 1.1mm, and the FRESH coils from the factory, will run this, even with a few PSi more being thrown at it, so why wouldn't a set of coils that generate from memory a 50% stronger spark?

You can run a 1.1mm gap, quite easily.

Even on 10PSi...

I run a 1.1mm gap, and was at one point pushing 18PSi off a big huffer turbo, into a 3.0L block, without an issue of misfire.

I was also running 12PSi on the RB25 setup with a 1.1mm gap, without an issue in the world.

The stock plug gap is set at 1.1mm, and the FRESH coils from the factory, will run this, even with a few PSi more being thrown at it, so why wouldn't a set of coils that generate from memory a 50% stronger spark?

thanx for that , i was researching if it would be ok to run a 1.1 plug as per specs as i have new coils and only minor bolt on bits.

the reason for post was to see if anyone else has done it, i did not say i will do it,or will not but, why not ask and save on time and changing sparkies over when you can get a answer from pepole that actually have this setup and running it like MBS206

I agree. Iridiums are a waste of money. What gap you will be able to run with out the car missfiring will depend mainly on the condition of the coilpacks. If they are old and overheated and cracked then the car will missfire. If they are in good condition then it show easily be able to run 1.1 gap.

And i thought splitfires werent any stronger than new stock coilpacks... has this 50% stronger spark been proven?

And i thought splitfires werent any stronger than new stock coilpacks... has this 50% stronger spark been proven?

they must be stronger. i havent heard of anyone running new nissan coilpacks in heavily modified cars. splitfires are a common choice for racing applications.

on my splitfire box it has a graph showing a dyno comparison, an RB making 323ps with regular coilpacks, and 330 with splitfires. theres also another graph which i assume is something to do with spark or volts or something (its in japanese) but the splitfires easily outperform the comparative product.

Ah k just because lots of people say that they arent actually any better. They are just more popular because the are less than half the price of new nissan coilpacks from the dealers. Although i know there are many 400kw gtr's running stock coilpacks without any problems.

With the graph, were the nissan coilpacks old or new. Cos obviously new splitfires are going to outperform 20year old nissan ones..

Ah k just because lots of people say that they arent actually any better. They are just more popular because the are less than half the price of new nissan coilpacks from the dealers. Although i know there are many 400kw gtr's running stock coilpacks without any problems.

With the graph, were the nissan coilpacks old or new. Cos obviously new splitfires are going to outperform 20year old nissan ones..

well thats a very good point. everyone rubbished kkr turbos a while back, many people still do, but they seem to go alright for people who actually tried them, inc. myself.

the graph says splitfire vs "normal", engine is an rb26dett. so if theyre new factory coilpacks, 7ps is a pretty big gain.

i didnt even consider the cost, i though splitfires were fkn expensive. but then again, genuine nissan is a total rip off for just about everything.

LOL yeah apparently genuine new nissan ones cost near $1000 so splitfires are half that price which is why they are a good choice even if they arent any better.

But i guess if they are better than new stock ones thats an added bonus

hey must be stronger. i havent heard of anyone running new nissan coilpacks in heavily modified cars. splitfires are a common choice for racing applications.

on my splitfire box it has a graph showing a dyno comparison, an RB making 323ps with regular coilpacks, and 330 with splitfires. theres also another graph which i assume is something to do with spark or volts or something (its in japanese) but the splitfires easily outperform the comparative product.

the hks drag gtr runs stock coil packs, the only reason ppl go spitfires is cause nissan

want something like $1000 for them brand new

they must be stronger. i havent heard of anyone running new nissan coilpacks in heavily modified cars. splitfires are a common choice for racing applications.

on my splitfire box it has a graph showing a dyno comparison, an RB making 323ps with regular coilpacks, and 330 with splitfires. theres also another graph which i assume is something to do with spark or volts or something (its in japanese) but the splitfires easily outperform the comparative product.

Stronger based on what?

They are not stronger at all.

You are comparing 10-15yr old worn Nissan coils, vs a new coil out of the box, which is wrong. Unless you had brand new coils in your car, your results/testing is incorrect.

If you purchased a NEW set of Nissan coils, put them against Splitfires - you wouldnt know the difference other than one lightens your wallet substancially more than the other.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Biggest thing is you're okay!   It sounds like between the accident, and the drive home, it was a pretty torturous trip again! On the bright side, you took the opportunity to enjoy the event more from the perspective of a spectator, than as an entrant!   Sad to see so much damage to the car. It really has taken a HUGE hit in the front end. If/when you choose to repair, hopefully the rails are straight (At least from shock tower backwards). Hopefully the extra cage coming through there has save most of the chassis rails, and HOPEFULLY saved the motor too. Best of luck when you eventually get motivated to start pulling it down to check it all out
    • Sounds more like what Brad said, that it's mainly transfer. What pad bed in procedure did you use, and did you replace/machine the rotors, or just swap pads?
    • The stutter is almost entirely in the pedal. I don't feel the brakes release and reapply as you would with ABS engaging but the pedal feels that way, without the brakes releasing. It only lasts for less than a second and the pedal is fine again. It's hard to explain, sorry.  I'll get under this weekend and just double check everything is tight. Fluid is at max where I left it.
    • What bedding in procedure did you use?   When you say stutter, what exactly do you mean? Like it feels like someone letting go of the brakes momentarily and regrabbing them again to get you to stop? Re-reading your post, and that is what it kind of makes me think you're explaining, like theres a little bit of a jolt, likely just as you're reaching a stop. I've only had this issue once. And if its caused by what caused mine, you will want to get the car up on stands again and check it over. Mine was a case of a caliper mounting bolt coming out and letting the caliper rotate on the other remaining bolt and gave play in a wheel as it came to a stop. But not every stop either!
    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - then entered a hotlap with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
×
×
  • Create New...