Splitfires And 1.1mm Gap

[08r3308]

just a quick update........ the car is running BCPR6ES-11 and is running fine , no misfire what so ever

i guess splitfires help out running this gap.

[geraus]

Im running splitfires with BCPR6ES-11 . Works fine not missing or anything. I've also noticed when i use to run BCPR6ES-0.8 it use to run more rich and i could hear my exhaust pop and stuff... un-tuned as well. I will be geting my tune soon

My current mods are:

Full Turbo Back Exhaust system 3inch

FMIC

POD

Walbro Fuel Pump

Hypergear highflow r33 turbo

5 Puk Button Clutch

Power FC (Not installed yet)

Z32 AFM(Not installed yet)

[Strik3r]

Im running Splitfire coils and a HKS TwinSpark CDI system. @ 18psi of boost i can run 1 - 1.11mm gap with no missfire.. at 25psi of boost i get a bad missfire that goes away when i go down to 0.9. I havent done back to back tests of the HP difference but its going to be pretty small. For peace of mind, and because its a track car, im just going to stick to buying 0.8mm gapped plugs. there is possibly 10hp per 0.1mm increase in gap size but if you have a missfire your going to lose all of those gains and then some.

@ 10psi with splitfire you will have no dramas at 1.1. When you start running higher boost numbers you need to lower the gap or upgrade your ignition system.

[JonnoHR31]

i know the R in the part number means resistor type and non resistor type and i think your supposed to use non resistor in 25s, anyone know if it makes any difference? i have resistor type atm, simply because supershit didnt have anything else.

[Tangles]

I currently run splitfires and BCPR6ES-0.8

got a set of BCPR6ES-1.1 to drop in, hopefully it will result in slightly better economy, etc

[W0rp3D]

I was running 1.1 on standard colis with a high flow @ 12-13psi, never had a problem till i messed around with the avcr and accidentally hit 18 psi then it started to break down, bought .8 plugs and have not gone back.

Any one tried the spark plugs in the pics below?

[dave32gtr]

Hi thought I would put in my 2 cents worth. This is my experiance and what I was told. A colder plug has a colder spark and producers less power, however it is more conductive and therefore will ignite under more pressure. A hotter plug has a hotter spark, producers more power but is less conductive, therefore wont ignite under higher pressure. A bigger gap provides a bigger spark, which ignites the fuel better and producess more power. However a bigger gap is less likely to ignite under a higher pressure. For example, someone befor said that they put in a spark plug that was running realy smooth at idle and in the lower rev range, but was missing up high. I would say that they have a spark plug that is too hot. Ignite the spark really well with less pressure and will run better than the other plug but wont ignite as well under pressure. Therefore misses up high. Thats why alot of people with close the gap to make it easyer for the spark to ignite. I run an 8 in heat range with a 1.1 gap. When I put in a 7 with a gap of 1.1 I get better fuel economy (almost an extra 100km to the tank) and more response down low. But when I put my foot down and boost gets over 12psi it will start to miss. So the trick is to get the right heat range with the right gap for each plug. I use NGK plug and I use the V-groove. I also use the copper plugs too, I tried the iridium plug but couldn't get them to work for me. I even sent my plugs to melbourne for one of there enginers to tell me what to run, but I went back to what my tuning shop told me to run.

Now I am not saying that I am right, this is just what I was told, and I thought I would add it as I thought it might give people enough of an idea on how to experiment with ther plugs and there gap and there heat range. Anyway hope this helps someone out there.

[08r3308]

i guess with 1.1 it will help out with fuel and have a better spark to burn it all , car seems to run fine and will test to see how the fuel usage will be in few weeks,

i thought that it would not run 1.1 gap as others have mentioned but clearly few people run 1.1 and its fine with upgraded coils or stock ones that are in good condition.

geraus were you member on mx6.com i seen your nickname there

[adis]

If using splitfires i can run .8 and 1.1 gap, which should i run if im chasing performance, im not worried about fuel. ?

[TiTAN]

if your car doesn't have any issues with larger plug gaps run the larger plug gap.

[SLAPS]

With a little over 300rwkw mine has no issues with fuel economy.

11L/100km.

Injectors are clean, zero vac leaks, new o2 sensor, new afm, std air box with 100mm cai in to the bumper and a good tune.

It hasn't always been that way.. Fuel economy dropped to 14-15L/100km when the injectors clagged up and were dirty. Replace injectors and o2 sensor rough injector trim in the pfc as the injectors were larger and economy went to 12l/100, tune with new afm and 11l/100 driving to and from work in light traffic.

--

My 300+ thousand km coils were arcing all over the place and breaking down with anything more than 10-11psi.

Ripped out the old grey sensor safe silicon coated them all up (inbetween the bracket and every little cranny), up to 24psi and no break down. Spark plugs are gapped to 0.8. The tune had them gapped to 0.6 for good measure but I've since pulled them and regapped out of curiosity but all is good.

Edited March 12, 2009 by TheRogue

[SLAPS]

dupe....

Edited March 12, 2009 by TheRogue

[frozenwaffles]

well mr rogue thats some impressive economy results! who tuned your car? and what engine managment are you using?

[R31Nismoid]

well mr rogue thats some impressive economy results! who tuned your car? and what engine managment are you using?

Its probably more to do with a controlled right foot than anything else.

I can get over 550-600km's to a tank on the FWY, and 400-450km's to a tank around town and im @ 280rwkw at the moment.

And there are two things which are hurting my economy...

1. AFM reading thats all over the place at any given moment (due to loom issue)

2. Diff gearing... 100km/h im almost on 3000rpm

So i dont think its uncommon... the urge to hit boost is just strong in some people

[W0rp3D]

Its probably more to do with a controlled right foot than anything else.

I can get over 550-600km's to a tank on the FWY, and 400-450km's to a tank around town and im @ 280rwkw at the moment.

And there are two things which are hurting my economy...

1. AFM reading thats all over the place at any given moment (due to loom issue)

2. Diff gearing... 100km/h im almost on 3000rpm

So i dont think its uncommon... the urge to hit boost is just strong in some people

So i dont think its uncommon... the urge to hit boost is just strong in some people

For some its not just an urge, its an addiction

I have not done a freeway run since my car has been retuned but now im making 210rwkw and with the retune i get around 15ltrs\100k's around town with a fair bit of spirited driving, before the tune i could only get that figure if i mostly babied it.

[SLAPS]

Exactly it...

Right foot and a car that is in good nick as well as tuned nicely.

I change gear at 2000-2500rpm with larger throttle openings. The car runs 15:1 afr's until it starts to make boost so even at those larger throttle openings its still running leaner afr's.

I found the std PFC tune to drop the afrs in to the 12-13's as soon as the throttle was cracked open any decent amount once its out of the o2 trim capabilities.

2-2.5k it has zero issues accelerating at the traffics normal pace. Keep revs low. Don't hold gears out with super light throttle as higher rpm and less throttle input = increased pumping losses and lowered DCR (dynamic comp ratio) so decreased effiency and torque as a result.

Revs low and more throttle with a tune to suit.

Edited March 12, 2009 by TheRogue

[frozenwaffles]

i like that advice...thankyou mr rogue!

[TiTAN]

same way i tuned mine, checked at last fill up on Tuesday 11.19L/100km all city driving and that's with the odd squirt here and there.

[SLYDA]

the splitfire user guide states a 0.8mm gap. Id be worried about burning them out.

[TiTAN]

How many skyline coils have you seen die from "burning out" that wasn't related to another electrical issue? its age that kills them the rubber dries out, cracks and they arc out on the head.