Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

after seeing this im gonna get my ppg straight cut a servive i think...

When ppl get there dogbox serviced what do they do though?

Not talking about just the change of oil but is there anything they can do to give it longer life?

yes all true, but. unforntunatly with a dog box you do need to crack test the parts. its just a fact of life. you smash something with a hammer for a year or soo it will crack. just when is the gamble.

after seeing this im gonna get my ppg straight cut a servive i think...

Dave what sort of km's has your box done since you built it? Do you use the clutch for upshifting?

I had my PPG straight cut dog pulled down and inspected after about 6000kms of use Street (85%) Hard driving 15%, it had a very small amounts of wear on the dogs maybe due to the fact i always use the clutch for shifting i find it way to rough otherwise..

well i bought it secondhand. so id say its got a few.

that and me having to trial and error the best way of "street" driving it.. my guess is at least new dogs for 2nd and 3rd. (so all the dogs lol..) and depending how worn the gears are, them to. (2nd,3rd)

i use the clutch. just shifting fast and firm with a pause going up gears and rev matching down. (down is way more easier than going up....)

waht sort of shifter is recomended. a quick shifter or stock???? i was thinking of making a super quick shifter but im to scared of missing a gear.

i almost got reverse on the freeway once going from 5th to 4th :s (full monty box)

I still run the standard shifter but have been wondering whether or not to upgrade to a short/quick shifter for quite awhile.

The ultimate shifter would be the stillway 0-400 with the lockout but its no good for circuit..

These boxes can be fatal if you mess up, 5th to reverse would have been real nasty goodbye engine clutch gearbox and possibly your feet/legs.

2nd to 1st on the upshift to 3rd is what worries me its easily done alot of people have found out the hard way myself included...

Driving a GTR with a Dog box is no joke it makes you appreciate a driver like Mark Berry that goes lap after lap without a problem...

People need to take this into account before installing a dog box one mistake and you can turn 20 grand+ into scrap...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
×
×
  • Create New...