Jump to content
SAU Community

Another N1 Oil Pump Thread

1SLP80

By 1SLP80,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

1SLP80 Contributor

1SLP80

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

I just gave my RB25 a freshen up. In the list of things that got done, a N1 oil pump installed. My question is directed at oil pressure. Before the install my oil pressure sat at 110kpa, which is spot on when warm. After the N1 was installed i noticed that my oil pressure is much higher - 190kpa when warm.

What are your thoughts?

Surely the oil pump has caused the pressure increase..........? is this good, bad or nothing...

what are the affects of excessive pressure and how much is too much

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252911-another-n1-oil-pump-thread/
Share on other sites
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Idle oil pressure is not so important. As long as clean oil is flowing and you have at least 5psi at idle then the engine will not fail as a result.

it is better that you have 190kpa (27.5psi) at warm idle. There is no real 'too much' amount but if I were going to say 'geez that's a bit high', it would be at around 275kpa (40psi). Pressure above 110psi can sometimes lead to issues with seals etc but normally that kind of pressure is only at cold start and/or full throttle with a shimmed high flowing pump - and even then it's only for a short period.

Make sure you have 275kpa (40psi) at around 2500-3000rpm, 410kpa(60psi) at around 4000-6000rpm.

Anything over 6000rpm, try to ensure you have at least 60psi but not so important as long as your revs stay under 7000rpm.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Also keep in mind the thickness of your oil has much more impact on oil pressure than changing the pump (n1 has pretty close to std pressure, some others like tomei are higher than those). Are you using the same oil as before?

1SLP80 Contributor

1SLP80

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeh myt oil is always old, i change every 5000kms or 3 months and before and after every track day. Im using castrol edge sport 0w-40 atm. I always use 0w-40, but im thinking i might run thicker w50/w60 at the track.

At idle its 190kpa like i mentioned, at WOT when warm, im sure i see over 600kpa. Can double check today as my gauges have recall

1SLP80 Contributor

1SLP80

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Idle oil pressure is not so important. As long as clean oil is flowing and you have at least 5psi at idle then the engine will not fail as a result.

it is better that you have 190kpa (27.5psi) at warm idle. There is no real 'too much' amount but if I were going to say 'geez that's a bit high', it would be at around 275kpa (40psi). Pressure above 110psi can sometimes lead to issues with seals etc but normally that kind of pressure is only at cold start and/or full throttle with a shimmed high flowing pump - and even then it's only for a short period.

Make sure you have 275kpa (40psi) at around 2500-3000rpm, 410kpa(60psi) at around 4000-6000rpm.

Anything over 6000rpm, try to ensure you have at least 60psi but not so important as long as your revs stay under 7000rpm.

I just gave it a strap in 2nd on the way to get brekkie, i got 620kpa (90psi?) at 6100rpm. Thats ok isnt it? As long as itr doesnt go over 110 psi.

This is my drift car too btw.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
I just gave it a strap in 2nd on the way to get brekkie, i got 620kpa (90psi?) at 6100rpm. Thats ok isnt it? As long as itr doesnt go over 110 psi.

This is my drift car too btw.

That's good.

Anything around that or up to 110 is fine really. Even over 110 is fine but its less desirable. Your pressure is good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      boost source Size Garrett gt28 gen2

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • timmy94
      boost source Size Garrett gt28 gen2

      By timmy94 · Posted

      I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • timmy94
      boost source Size Garrett gt28 gen2

      By timmy94 · Posted

      I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • timmy94
      boost source Size Garrett gt28 gen2

      By timmy94 · Posted

      So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • r32-25t
      R32 gtr transmission strength, billet plate

      By r32-25t · Posted

      Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...