Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Quite some time ago, my father bought a copy of NDS for use with their R33 GTS25T. Well, I eventually got around to connecting it all up & going for a drive in our S1 RS4V. After analysis of the date, I discovered a few interesting facts.

For those not familiar with the software, it 'speaks' Consult, and can provide a lot of useful information about your non OBD-II Nissan ECU. There are newer packages available for the more modern power-plants from the same vendor.

Now to the test results...

1. A full-throttle standing start, in 'Snow' mode, with 2nd selected, the high-boost solenoid gets triggered at 5600rpm.

(That dispels the myth that it isn't triggered when in 'Snow' mode)

2. A full-throttle standing start, in 'Normal' mode, with Drive selected, the high-boost solenoid gets triggered at 6000rpm in 1st & 5600rpm in 2nd (don't ask about 3rd, it was a public road with a 100km/h speed limit...) Funnily enough 5600rpm is pretty much 100km/h as indicated in the software.

(That dispels the myth that only low boost is used in 1st)

3. With the boost controls modified to use the restrictor as a permanent bleed (i.e. no solenoid actually in use), the AFM voltage got as high as 4.87V at 6650rpm. This, on an engine with breathing mods of only a Finer-Filter panel, reinforced intake pipe, C34 S2/R34GTT intercooler, JJR bell-mouth dump & 3" Catco Cat, doesn't leave much room for added flow before R&R kicks in.

This occurred on the '2nd/snow' standing-start run, on the 'drive' run it got up to 4.62V at 6250rpm, which is the shift point. That's a bit better, but still only 0.5V away from the limit.

(Those who have been paying attention would notice that the first run ended at a little more than 100km/h :wave: )

4. Injector Duty Cycle peaked at 78%, this occurred as the engine bounced off the limiter a couple of times at the end of the first run. It got as high as 66% on the 'drive' run.

5. Timing dropped from 20 to 17 degrees during the 1st-2nd gear change, before returning to 25 degrees at 4000rpm at the end of the shift.

6. It was easy to see that even at low/mid throttle openings at 60km/h on a slight incline, the mixtures are certainly erring on the rich side.

Quite some time ago I bought the Jaycar DFA kit (probably 2 years ago!), but haven't finished building it (I also have the DR30, 240Z & 1200 ute to work on, all of which have long lists of enhancements/projects that are on the go. Not to mention a young family!). Having looked at the figures shown by the brief logging that I performed tonight, I can see that the gains to be had in economy are more than theory. With a heavy car, in (low) boost a lot of the time, optimising the fuelling in the mid-range is of great benefit.

That is interesting, because the mods you list in 3 are about the same as mine.I have 3" cat back to fairly quiet (restrictive??) cannon.

I am running 17" and I think am lower is speed than you per 1000 revs. Mine works out at about 10, 20, 30 & 40 kph/1000 revs.

I haven't tried standing starts but on full kickdown it changes at circa 6500. And it gets there frighteningly quick. I too have a Jcar DFA unfitted atm. I think I will make it my next mod after I get the remote oil filter installed this week. I would really like better economy, not because of cost, but to see what can be done without cooking the motor. I have a Fuel Genie from a local computer whiz. It is supposed to save 25% 0n fuel and give better HP & Torque (ACCC tested.) but am loathe to try it till I can get an A/F ratio to make sure it is not running too lean.

NISSAN DATA SCAN IS DA BOMB!!!!!

I have a cable I built myself -just been too lazy to hook it up haha..

but yeah.. Stinky Rooster got one from over east for not a lot -anyone interested contact him or buy/steal/borrow a cable - its well worth it!

Very interesting. I too have a DFA but I needed help completing it and the EIBC so although I fitted the EIBC which works well (and also tells you the injector cycles) I wasn't confident to fit the DFA and so picked up a cheap SAFC (as well as an SITC) .

When you fit the DFA you will find adjusting will alter your timing but if you can track the timing with your consult then you should be able to fix it roughly with an SITC. I have an LM2 to monitor my AFRs.

If you read the guff with the DFA you will see that it can be calibrated to work in a small range and I was going to (will eventually) install it in the line from the O2 sensor to try to adjust closed loop running in order to improve fuel economy. If that doesn't work I will put it in place of my SAFC. If it does work I will get another DFA to replace the SAFC (seeing as I already have the controller and I can always sell an SAFC).

Very interesting. I too have a DFA but I needed help completing it and the EIBC so although I fitted the EIBC which works well (and also tells you the injector cycles) I wasn't confident to fit the DFA and so picked up a cheap SAFC (as well as an SITC) .

When you fit the DFA you will find adjusting will alter your timing but if you can track the timing with your consult then you should be able to fix it roughly with an SITC. I have an LM2 to monitor my AFRs.

If you read the guff with the DFA you will see that it can be calibrated to work in a small range and I was going to (will eventually) install it in the line from the O2 sensor to try to adjust closed loop running in order to improve fuel economy. If that doesn't work I will put it in place of my SAFC. If it does work I will get another DFA to replace the SAFC (seeing as I already have the controller and I can always sell an SAFC).

Haha, my kits have been sitting for 18months waiting for me to get someone to check and finnish my work, as they were my first kits.

I knew most of the above from my informeter, but was still interested to hear about the boost solenoid, mine is bypassed, and i feel i hit R&R with only a 34SMIC, highflow panel, 3" catback, and bypassed solenoid.

Hence i am holding off doing the rest of the exhaust until the kit is fitted.

-Ryan

oh but you didnt mention how you can turn off each cylinder individually or " trick " the motor into thinking its running at 110 Deg C - you can also datalog it and graph it in excel etc.

True,

I forgot about all that!

I've had a play with the cylinder tests for power-balance and set the VCT solenoid but haven't changed any sensor values.

As you mention, the datalog files are tab-delimited text, which you can use outside of NDS and graph as you see fit.

  • 1 month later...

my data log shows my afm has been up to 4.97 and i aint even done much to my car

6288 rpm

4.96 afm

85.99 duty cycle

84kmh

22 timing

rs four s with HDI fmic and good cat back . r32 wastegate actuator . 11psi

Edited by lachlanw

Would just like to add my 2c on how great Datascan is..

I have a remapped stock ECU running the RB30DET in my 32, I also put a carpc in there sometime ago purely so I wouldn't have to plug the laptop in everytime I wanted to check something!

It rocks. I drive around with the dashboard screen up showing a Tacho (as the dash tacho is not 100% accurate) and Water Temp along with an RPM warning light (set to whatever you want) and a Speed warning light (also configurable).

It's always on when the car is on so it's easy to turn datalogging on at any time and is great for the drags and skidpan/track days!

Lastly, it's super fkn handy for diagnosing issues :)

nissan datascan is a very good piece of software for the price. i've used ConZult tuner (like nissan consult full version, auto trans, hicas, air con diagnostics) but I couldn't really jusify the extra cost.

for anyone interested, there is a datascan manual which I found really useful. i think it was made by someone on twinturbo.net

http://www.kroffts.com/kke/files/Nissan%20...an%20Manual.pdf

dont forget theres obd scantech that does pretty much the same, for free (theres also ecutalk, calumsult, tecu, etc):

http://techdiag.co.uk/obdscantech/web/pg002.html

Will any of these work for OBDII consult cars? ie, 2003 M35

Cheers

Andy

no but you have your generic obd2 stuff for those cars, plus the recent blazt obdii cable/sw (which includes nissan specific stuff i think)

Cool, thanks. That is the way I am looking to go.

Cheers

Andy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...