Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 89
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

-7s/-9s are 330rwkw or so.

-5's are 380rwkw or so...

You need to decide on that, and dont get HKS, they are not worth the price these days now exhange rates are up the creek, go with garrett

7k for the motot build & in/out limits you but then some of the parts aren't bad by any means.

Going off your original as per here:

Ok heres the parts list

-New Crank

-CP forged pistons

-Eagle Conrods

-Gates racing timing belt

-Tomei sump baffle kit

-Mines rocker cover baffle set

-Genuine Gasket set

-Tomei metal gasket set

- ACL Race Bearings to mains and Rods

You can cut out the sump/rocker baffles and the rods (stock is more than fine) if you need to save pennies as i think you wont get all of them in a 7k in/out budget.

You do need however, good ARP rod bolts, they are a key to the build.

Other than that the above will fit, and then 2.5k for the -7s/-9s/-5s and you'll probably end up around 11k-12k fitted and then probably tuning costs on top.

So a bit over the 10k but at least its a decent well equipped setup. Its pretty similar to mine actually except i have GT-SS (got them when the exhange rate was good etc).

u dont need the cam cover baffles, the std ones work fine. Just pull them out and clean out the gausing

the tomei sump baffle looks like this:

post-20917-1232877171_thumb.jpgpost-20917-1232877181_thumb.jpg

which is better than nothing, however its better to get extra capacity aswell as better baffling like this: (this one is setup for an external pickup)

post-20917-1232877402_thumb.jpgpost-20917-1232877441_thumb.jpg

post-20917-1232877482_thumb.jpgpost-20917-1232877525_thumb.jpg

Are you going to be doing lots of track work?

If not, with the right oil mods to the head/block as part of the initial build etc will easily suffice for a street car that might do 1-2 track days/year.

Baffles are not a requirement. Nice to have, yes. But not a neccesity if budget comes into the equation and the second thing to chop out...

with rods being the first place you can save cash if you need.

To give you an idea of the extra prices of my R32 GTR engine rebuild that was finished early 2008 not included in the list of major parts:

Engine balancing & machining - $1250

Head reconditioning - $700

Crank pulley bolt & washer - $20

Crankshaft bush - $18

Key x2 - $5

Oil filter - $15

Idler pulley - $286

Spark plugs x6 (platinum tipped) - $160

Front diff side seal - $15

Engine mount x2 - $170

Shim machining - $10

Rubber plugs x2 - $15

Washers x20 - $50

Gearbox crossmember bushes - $40

Silicon hose - $5

Clamps x4 - $10

Gear lever boot - $18

Coolant x3 - $35

Front diff oil - $30

Power steering oil - $18

Hicas oil - $9

Injector seals & O rings - $40

Motul oil 300V - $118

Motul oil 4100 - $60

New battery - $95

Total: $3192

My total labour bill was over $6000 but I had a lot of new stuff fitted.

Edited by writeoff

Its not cheap to do, you'll find that trying to cut corners will always bite you in the ass.

Doesnt matter how "great/cheap" an option is, there's a reason people dont do it - keep that in mind :P

Lewis Engines any one used them???

They any good??

There in Adelaide and have quoted me for the whole thing and tuning and they are pretty good!

But do they do good work??

by all accounts they stand by the workmanship. isn't there a few drifters using their engines?

have ot say, they look pretty well setup. I don't think you need a mega dollar build for your goals, just go the 6.5k rebuild, garrett turbos and away you go.

there ar a lot of stock engines making over 300rwkw, so the lewis engine will be good for your goal :P

save yourself some money (you don't need a lot of stuff that has been listed + you ahve a lot of good gear already).

How does this set up sound...? Its slightly cheaper

Deck square to tunnels

Bore and hone

Balance

Acid bath block

Reco head ,complete

Assemble engine from sump to covers

Water pump

Oil restrictor

N1 pump as per customer decision

R33 crank

Forged pistons and rings

H beam rods

Gates belt

Nissan gasket set

Mlsr steel head gasket

Acl race bearings

Remove engine , remove accessories refit engine and fit accessories run in and tune

combine that with a set of Garrett -9s?

ive used lewis quite a few times in the past getting speedway engine's machined up have never had a problem with them with any of the work they have done for me in the past

cheers dean

^ pretty good build above.

However if your just using -9's the added expense of rods really is hard to justify in my book, they will do over 400rwkw as proven many a time over (with good rod bolts etc)

For sure stick N1 oil/water pumps on there

Still no mention of decent rod bolts, only thing you'd make sure of really

^ pretty good build above.

However if your just using -9's the added expense of rods really is hard to justify in my book, they will do over 400rwkw as proven many a time over (with good rod bolts etc)

For sure stick N1 oil/water pumps on there

Still no mention of decent rod bolts, only thing you'd make sure of really

yep...the list above is good but forget the rods...totally agree with Ash.

When will people finally get through their heads the stock GTR rods are bloody tough and only in the most extreme engines need to be upgraded (and by upgraded i dont mean to cheap chinese sh1t thats probably on par if not worse than re-sized stockers with a bolt upgrade anyway)

Still no mention of decent rod bolts, only thing you'd make sure of really

I didn't list them (as I count them as an essential part and was just listing extras) but I used Tomei conrod bolts - $205

Also remember that you will need a dyno tune after so remember to include that in your total cost estimate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...