Weird Noise Found - Engine F**ked

[Adz2332]

so the rods can be left out as in use my exsiting ones or would i get new ones from nissan?

as the rods come in at H beam rods $699?

[Swiper the Fox]

so the rods can be left out as in use my exsiting ones or would i get new ones from nissan?

as the rods come in at H beam rods $699?

depends if they are damaged.

Serviceable 2nd hand rods can be picked up for as low as $100 a set.

[DAN00H]

Adz

I think you had some pretty definitive advice on the build especially with regards to rods.

if you have been given a good price on what you last listed and are happy with that, I can't see what else you need to know.

great thing is you have a number of good options infront of you for the rebuild now you just choose what suits you best.

Edited January 27, 2009 by DAN00H

[Adz2332]

Yer true i hear that DAN just not looking to rush into it and regreat it later...

Is turbo choice going to play much part on the rebulid. IE if i pick the smaller of the turbos and only make around say 330 kws will i still need everything on the list and the more expensive parts? like i have been told the engine will hold out no probs for the -5s at around 380 kws... Can i down grade anything more to suit the smaller turbo set up?

If the makes sense :S

[Adz2332]

also would i need some z32's ?

[DAN00H]

This is what I would go with as you have listed;

Deck square to tunnels √

Bore and hone √

Balance √

Acid bath block √

Reco head ,complete ? retainers/ guides can sometimes fail – but plenty of stock/ original headed GTR’s getting around. I’d only consider if yours was noisy, had poor seats/ spring tension or obvious damage.

Assemble engine from sump to covers √

Water pump - not N1, stock is better for the street, N1 for Track.

Oil restrictor ? I’ll get flamed, but not needed as you are not using a pump that shifts a lot of oil (i.e. Jun). Better off with decent oil return to the sump mods (not the return from the rear of the head – galleries)

N1 pump as per customer decision Ok if you can’t get one of the machined drive gears that was done by a forum member.

R33 crank ?– is yours too damaged to use with a drive extension? Lot of coin for a new crank (> $1000)

Forged pistons and rings √

H beam rods NO use stockers with tomei/ APR bolts

Gates belt √ any will do really

Nissan gasket set √

Mlsr steel head gasket √

Acl race bearings √

Remove engine , remove accessories refit engine and fit accessories run in and tune

also would i need some z32's ?

the stock AFm's run out of resolution ~ 300rwkw, so yes a set of Z32's or RB25's or NISMO replacements will be required.

I got my Z32's brand new with new tomei plugs for under $500. keep in mind that the Z32's require differnent pipework as they are physically larger.

NISMO are more expensive, but will fit the stock pipework (can be a little hard to find at times). All will require A/M management (you have a PFC yes?)

have you changed the pump? if not, let me know (I have a nismo intank that you can have cheap if required) or grab a walbro 255 or bosch 040.

Honestly, if the quote for what you listed is competitive with Lewis and you like/ trust the builder then go with that - you will not be unhappy as it will suit a range of turbo options. Lewis at 6.5k is a good option that will also suit GT-SS to GT2530 sized Garrett turbos (5's, 7's or 9's). I personally use HKS GT2530's.

I don't think your build components will be over or under utilizing any of the above chosen turbos. you are a winner whatever you do as the potential will be 300rwkw - 400rwkw (engine build in what I have seen - I'm no expert)

Edited January 27, 2009 by DAN00H

[Adz2332]

Cheers mate,

Yer i have a power fc, i also just put a nismo fuel pump in....

im thinking of looking around for some dump pipes, some cams and now ill have to find some afms grrrrr

anyone have any for sale??

[DAN00H]

Cheers mate,

Yer i have a power fc, i also just put a nismo fuel pump in....

im thinking of looking around for some dump pipes, some cams and now ill have to find some afms grrrrr

anyone have any for sale??

you won't need cams - stick with the stockers. if you must have some let me know. short split type dumps are better than stock and can be had for $150.

I know of a set of Z32's can check if you want?

[Tangles]

search ebay usa/japan/aus for new name-brand engine components.

Id go with Lewis mate

was going to go with them for my head work, honestly, but trusted my tuner Boostwerx enough for them to organise it all for me, at the end of the day.

10k budget incl. turbos and work from Lewis might be about spot on hey. 300kw is fine for the street, surely

[Adz2332]

N1 pump as per customer decision Ok if you can’t get one of the machined drive gears that was done by a forum member.

What are you talking about here?? As ive been quoted $600 + for the N1 pump?

[DAN00H]

N1 pump as per customer decision Ok if you can’t get one of the machined drive gears that was done by a forum member.

What are you talking about here?? As ive been quoted $600 + for the N1 pump?

searching for the thread. it showed the N1, Jun and the custom oil pump. will attach link once found

[bigmikespec]

I agree with DAN00H definately go for some new rods. Look up what "fatigue failure" is and you will want to get some new rods trust me.

However with regard to dumps, a bell mouth style would be the ducks nuts, forget about split dumps. Considering the housing on the turbo is not designed to work with the dumps, see attached. The one on the left is a Garrett -5.

Mike

[Swiper the Fox]

This is what I would go with as you have listed;

Deck square to tunnels √

Bore and hone √

Balance √

Acid bath block √

Reco head ,complete ? retainers/ guides can sometimes fail – but plenty of stock/ original headed GTR’s getting around. I’d only consider if yours was noisy, had poor seats/ spring tension or obvious damage.

Assemble engine from sump to covers √

Water pump - not N1, stock is better for the street, N1 for Track.

Oil restrictor ? I’ll get flamed, but not needed as you are not using a pump that shifts a lot of oil (i.e. Jun). Better off with decent oil return to the sump mods (not the return from the rear of the head – galleries)

N1 pump as per customer decision Ok if you can’t get one of the machined drive gears that was done by a forum member.

R33 crank ?– is yours too damaged to use with a drive extension? Lot of coin for a new crank (> $1000)

Forged pistons and rings √

H beam rods NO use stockers with tomei/ APR bolts

Gates belt √ any will do really

Nissan gasket set √

Mlsr steel head gasket √

Acl race bearings √

Remove engine , remove accessories refit engine and fit accessories run in and tune

the stock AFm's run out of resolution ~ 300rwkw, so yes a set of Z32's or RB25's or NISMO replacements will be required.

I got my Z32's brand new with new tomei plugs for under $500. keep in mind that the Z32's require differnent pipework as they are physically larger.

NISMO are more expensive, but will fit the stock pipework (can be a little hard to find at times). All will require A/M management (you have a PFC yes?)

have you changed the pump? if not, let me know (I have a nismo intank that you can have cheap if required) or grab a walbro 255 or bosch 040.

Honestly, if the quote for what you listed is competitive with Lewis and you like/ trust the builder then go with that - you will not be unhappy as it will suit a range of turbo options. Lewis at 6.5k is a good option that will also suit GT-SS to GT2530 sized Garrett turbos (5's, 7's or 9's). I personally use HKS GT2530's.

I don't think your build components will be over or under utilizing any of the above chosen turbos. you are a winner whatever you do as the potential will be 300rwkw - 400rwkw (engine build in what I have seen - I'm no expert)

finally someone on here who agrees with the oil rear tubo drain...its a crock of shit. The Japs actually only do it to ventilate the crankcase it was never designed to be an oil drain. If you have ever looked at the large oil galleries at the rear of any RB engine you will see that the chance of any oil to actually make its way through a small hole on the centre of a dash 8 or dash 10 fitting is being optimistic in the extreme. It will return to the sump via the large oil galleries that already exist there. Ill get the 'mythbusters' to make some clear hose and mount an uder bonnet camera to prove this myth is just that...a myth. The only thing you may see going on is a constant stream of crankcase pressure being expelled up the pipe and out through the rockers. This mod can be done without having to massage the firewall and running a fitting on the rear. Enlarging the oil returns along the block is a much better option.

[Adz2332]

so i should leave out of the build...? And add..?

[DAN00H]

searching for the thread. it showed the N1, Jun and the custom oil pump. will attach link once found

Can't find the actual thread (between working!) but GTRsean mentioned getting one of the billet gear sets, muight be worth a PM?

[9krpm]

Rhemac in South Australia built some tough RBs in the past.

[DRIFTER]

finally someone on here who agrees with the oil rear tubo drain...its a crock of shit. The Japs actually only do it to ventilate the crankcase it was never designed to be an oil drain. If you have ever looked at the large oil galleries at the rear of any RB engine you will see that the chance of any oil to actually make its way through a small hole on the centre of a dash 8 or dash 10 fitting is being optimistic in the extreme. It will return to the sump via the large oil galleries that already exist there. Ill get the 'mythbusters' to make some clear hose and mount an uder bonnet camera to prove this myth is just that...a myth. The only thing you may see going on is a constant stream of crankcase pressure being expelled up the pipe and out through the rockers. This mod can be done without having to massage the firewall and running a fitting on the rear. Enlarging the oil returns along the block is a much better option.

the hose running from the rear of my head heats up really fast(same as my oil cooler hoses) which suggests it has a fair bit of oil flowing through it, and thats at idle. surely its doing something.

[Swiper the Fox]

the hose running from the rear of my head heats up really fast(same as my oil cooler hoses) which suggests it has a fair bit of oil flowing through it, and thats at idle. surely its doing something.

hot air?

[GTR1993]

Another engine builder down here in SA when he built a customer a 25/30 said the same thing, the rear head oil drain addition is a waste of time and time should be spent on the factory system exactly as dirt is saying.

[The Dan]

finally someone on here who agrees with the oil rear tubo drain...its a crock of shit. The Japs actually only do it to ventilate the crankcase it was never designed to be an oil drain. If you have ever looked at the large oil galleries at the rear of any RB engine you will see that the chance of any oil to actually make its way through a small hole on the centre of a dash 8 or dash 10 fitting is being optimistic in the extreme. It will return to the sump via the large oil galleries that already exist there. Ill get the 'mythbusters' to make some clear hose and mount an uder bonnet camera to prove this myth is just that...a myth. The only thing you may see going on is a constant stream of crankcase pressure being expelled up the pipe and out through the rockers. This mod can be done without having to massage the firewall and running a fitting on the rear. Enlarging the oil returns along the block is a much better option.

I've been trying to tell people that for years.

The standard oil returns can out flow the feeds by 20% due to their size. Finally something we can agree on