Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all,

i already have a pfc but running std afm now i have to upgrade afm to handle 380awkw around that mark so nismo options are about $800 so i was thinking why not just sell my pfc and get a d-jetro version? would this be a better option for cash wise and performance?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/253819-pfc-cross-road-normal-or-d-jetro/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

This is what you need to do.

Sell the power fc and buy a Vi-pec. Problem solved. Even with jetro your still limited. Vi-pec is your best plug in option.

Don't know about the Vipec?

Look here

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gu...ml&hl=vipec

and here.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pl...ml&hl=vipec

This ecu is fast becoming the best plug in option for Skylines and other imports

This is what you need to do.

Sell the power fc and buy a Vi-pec. Problem solved. Even with jetro your still limited. Vi-pec is your best plug in option.

Don't know about the Vipec?

Look here

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gu...ml&hl=vipec

and here.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pl...ml&hl=vipec

This ecu is fast becoming the best plug in option for Skylines and other imports

yep...i used to think the power fc was the be all and end all....now it looks old, slow and featureless.

Vi-PEC FTW all the features and processing power of a MoTeC M800 at a 1/5 of the price installed.

Edited by DiRTgarage

$800 for AFM's?

Nengun (last time i looked) had em for about $250-$300 less than that delivered... im thinking about buying some myself at present, hence i remember the price.

PFC all the way... but then depends on the tuner.

IDC what processing power it has, motec is beyond useless on a street car, its more of a pain than a factory ECU.

PFC wins for ease of use/speed of tune... but i cbf'd with another argument over it so dont you vipec lovers start

$800 for AFM's?

Nengun (last time i looked) had em for about $250-$300 less than that delivered... im thinking about buying some myself at present, hence i remember the price.

PFC all the way... but then depends on the tuner.

IDC what processing power it has, motec is beyond useless on a street car, its more of a pain than a factory ECU.

PFC wins for ease of use/speed of tune... but i cbf'd with another argument over it so dont you vipec lovers start

Ash...can't back you up on this one mate....you have no experience tuning a Vi-PEC...its so disgustingly easy and fast even you could do it. Hey its not as fast as you are with the ladies...but what is?

Super Tuner Mark Jacobsen at Godzilla said he never thought a plug in ECU could better the Power FC...he now admits that he was wrong.

Over to you Guilt-Toy...smash him.

Edited by DiRTgarage
Ash...can't back you up on this one mate....you have no experience tuning a Vi-PEC...its so disgustingly easy and fast even you could do it. Hey its not as fast as you are with the ladies...but what is?

Over to you Guilt-Toy...smash him.

Ye but ive got something better my friend!

The car that made you jizz your pants while you were down here though the hills of Dandenong... Powered by the ole PFC.

You think the processing power of a motec800 would make it go better?

:D

So get back here you!

$800 for AFM's?

Nengun (last time i looked) had em for about $250-$300 less than that delivered... im thinking about buying some myself at present, hence i remember the price.

PFC all the way... but then depends on the tuner.

IDC what processing power it has, motec is beyond useless on a street car, its more of a pain than a factory ECU.

PFC wins for ease of use/speed of tune... but i cbf'd with another argument over it so dont you vipec lovers start

lol...

Takes me between a hour to 2 hours to fully remap a power FC with datalogit.

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=wys6yVF_o2Q

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=HxKu9Uvt0sU

Takes 30 minutes with a vipec.

Power FC Cost from Nengun

Power FC $1416

Boost Controll Kit $600

Z32 AFM's $600

Vi-Pec Cost

V44 $1650

5bar Map Sensor $150

Turbo Smart Boost Sol $150

V88

$2250.

Plus the vipec has launch control anti lag and traction control inbuilt with wide band options, no can do with power fc.

The Jetro's are still a outdated power fc. get something that works better for cheaper. v44 will do :D

30mins would be a world record for a full tune on a car wouldnt it?

Once everything is setup and your tuning the load points it will take around 20 minutes or less to map the whole map, depending on how many load points you have setup.

Once you have done that power runs are quick and easy. usually 2 or 3 power runs is enough to get the mixtures right, then you need to work on the timing for peek torque.

Remember the Vipec has Wide band open loop & closed loop. you set the AFR and it does wonders.

I love my power fc's.. id rather tune them then any other computer (appart from a vipec)

You don’t need a Apexi boost control whatever, no-one I know is using one here.

Infact hardly and of the cars done @ racepace have EBC's :D

$600 saved, cheaper than a V88… so a V44 is only marginally more expensive, couple of hundred in it.

As for the rest, look I don’t rate anti lag, launch control, extra widebands/inputs etc etc for a daily street drive car… why?

Because im never going to use it. That’s what it comes down too for me.

Yeah its great to have a zillion features, but…

- if you cant use them legally

- without adverse afect to the car

- use them often enough to really 'enjoy'

Whats the point?

My tuner says PFC - I get a PFC.

A PFC costs me near enough to the same, that’s what im going to do (before the exhange rate drop, it was cheaper)

It works fine, it runs fine, better than a stock ECU… so whilst you might have a different view, and that’s fine. PFC all the way.

The sensor check and other screens tell me enough about what i need to know for general problem diagnosis, again better than a stock ECU

I know people that have had motec, autronic, link, whatever and have gone back to PFC so they cant be too bad

Also - the OP already HAS a PFC... i think thats the defining factor

PFC wins for ease of use/speed of tune... but i cbf'd with another argument over it so dont you vipec lovers start

Point proven yet? The above statement was not correct...shall i highlight some more?

we didn't even need to drag you into it kicking and screaming. You were a more than willing participant id say.

You are right though, if you want a basic ecu that runs the engine (and has its little gremlins) buy a power fc. If you want the best item that similar $$ can buy, you buy a Vi-PEC. You mentioned above that the Power FC can't be too bad...no one is saying its bad...i wouldn't have used one for all the years i had if it was.

There's an old saying i love and it goes a little something like this...

"If you want to find out how bad something is, ask someone who doesn't have one and/or knows nothing about it"

Seems to fit well right here.

Edited by DiRTgarage

i really wanna stay with a pfc because everyone knows how to tune and its got a heads up display well controller,

and

option A

spend $800 on two nismo afm or $600 on 2 z32 afm

or

option B

sell current pfc $1000 or so

buy d-jetro pfc with all sensors $1800

so still costs $800 but dont have the issues with afm's

whats going to give the better result with only a $100 differnce each way?

i really wanna stay with a pfc because everyone knows how to tune and its got a heads up display well controller

Vi-pec is soon to have a dash style interface that will make the handcontroller look like a children's toy. Display any engine parameter you like, programmable warning lights, peak hold, shift lights etc.

If Power FC is good for you and your tuner then thats the best choice for you.

I just like to stir Ash a little. :D

At least the AFM plugs arrived hehe - if i didn't id have been a bit more fired up (thanks for those, i owe you)

But he already has a PFC... so why waste time, effort, money. Stick to it.

And i never said the vipec was bad :P

Travis, as i said, Nismo AFM's are NOT $800

here, $600

http://www.nengun.com/nismo/air-flow-meter

I'm sure you could get them cheaper than that.

If you drive the car daily and so on, the l-jetro is the way to go... not d-jetro

The Nismo air flow meter is an upgrade to the standard air flow meter enabling high air flow measurement for modified vehicles. Please note this is not a Z32 AFM, these are available under the Tomei - Z32 AFM. Please note, you must purchase a quantity of 2 to replace both AFM's on the RB26DETT.

~$1200

at the end of the day the power fc is a toy. if you want a 300kw street wonder then thats all you need. If you want to take your car to the next level you need something else.

Autronic, Wolf, Vi-pec, Haltech, Link, Motec.. whatever it may be.. you need to move on and stop playing in the childrens play ground and get something worth while to move forward, took me a while to realise this.. I held onto that power FC as much as i could, to the point where i had all kinds of gadgets and attatchments messing up the car.. Now i have it all in one :P

What actually stops you with the PFC? What are the map/tuning limitations experienced?

I'm not talking extra features that you dont need... just the sheer ECU, mapping, and then tuning on a dyno... drive on the street. Thats it.

What makes the PFC unsuitable for big power (400rwkw+ say)???

Putting things like autronic, motec and so on add nothing, they are ECU's that take weeks to properly tune from scratch to be able to have perfect driveability

Putting things like autronic, motec and so on add nothing, they are ECU's that take weeks to properly tune from scratch to be able to have perfect driveability

The fact that you asked this question is the most concerning matter. I guess i cannot judge.. I was there once. Now i know better.

For me to try and explain to you is a waste of time, (as it was for my mates who tried to explain it for me..) you will work it out in your own time :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...