Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

both those coolers are built for alot higher hp than that, i doubt you would see any difference between them.

are you buying a full kit or getting custom piping made up? i'd use whichever one fits easiest/has inlet/outlet in the best spot

Edited by VB-
both those coolers are built for alot higher hp than that, i doubt you would see any difference between them.

are you buying a full kit or getting custom piping made up? i'd use whichever one fits easiest/has inlet/outlet in the best spot

They just sell the core, I have to buy a piping kit. Looking at the hks kit(2in 2out)

Someone told me that the stock piping easy to broken if boost over 1.2bar

lol you've been told rubbish mate. Plenty of people running 20+ psi stock piping.

in all honesty, you don't need to change the core. stock is more than adequate.

save your money

lol you've been told rubbish mate. Plenty of people running 20+ psi stock piping.

in all honesty, you don't need to change the core. stock is more than adequate.

save your money

the stock core has been demaged, that’s why have to change。。

Gt2860-5R BOOST 1.3BAR(18.2psi) will make the stock piping come loose or crack, is that ture?

Best local intercoolers for my 2c

In fact the guys there make things to match the application. Not 'bolt on boy' style. Their products are second to none.

www.are.com.au

I had one made for my old gtr, similar size to stock. However it out performed it both in power and response.

Edited by rev210
the stock core has been demaged, that's why have to change。。

Gt2860-5R BOOST 1.3BAR(18.2psi) will make the stock piping come loose or crack, is that ture?

Have a look at your hoses, if they look old they can crack or come loose, if they look new they should be OK.

I replaced mine with full HKS SPL kit mainly for looks though, my hoses were fine

Who told you they will crack or come loose at 1.3 Bar?

the stock core has been demaged, that’s why have to change。。

Gt2860-5R BOOST 1.3BAR(18.2psi) will make the stock piping come loose or crack, is that ture?

it will not come loose if the clamps are done up tight enough

Have a look at your hoses, if they look old they can crack or come loose, if they look new they should be OK.

I replaced mine with full HKS SPL kit mainly for looks though, my hoses were fine

Who told you they will crack or come loose at 1.3 Bar?

Is that 2 in and 2 out pipings in the HKS SPL kit?

As i know the NISMO piping kit are exectly the same as stock piping.

How is the fittment of HKS piping kit?

They told me it's easy to happen not must be

I agree, don't worry about replacing your pipe work. I run 1.3 bar (not all the time though) and over the last 3 years I have blowen a pipe off probably 3 times. Just put a screw driver in your car to put it back on. If it is a problem it is easy to replace later anyway. As for intercoolers, mine is 600 x 300 x 90 I can't say that I have realy noticed much lag from going bigger. I can't say I really saw any real gains from it either, but I did it for looks. I would go with what VB said, get the one that fits the easiest.

Blowing a pipe of is not really a problem because your car will run rich if you do, which means your not going to damage anything. Save your money it's probably not going to be a problem anyway.

Is that 2 in and 2 out pipings in the HKS SPL kit?

As i know the NISMO piping kit are exectly the same as stock piping.

How is the fittment of HKS piping kit?

They told me it's easy to happen not must be

can i just ask how big is the stock piping 2 1/2"???

I have an ARC M073 twin inlet. Used it with 2560R-5's. Upgraded from trust and the differance was staggering.

Have tested ARC/HKS/Trust/Apexi. (flow,cooling and pressure drop)

-ARC were the best hands down in every possible way, even give more flow to the radiator.

-Trust were good in the 150mm wide version (no pressue drop, reasonable cooling)

-Apexi Cool well due to having a longer 710mm core, but had some pressure drop(3psi)

-and HKS recorded pressure drop and suffered from heat soak after a few runs.

Still all better than chinese bar and plate.

For the power you are after I would use the ARC. Which supports up to 400rwkw and will give more throttle response/midrange improvement over the trust.

For over 400rwkw....up to 500rwkw the ARC M105+M109

Over 500rwkw

Trust 150mm single or twin inlet

The bell mouthed inlet on the ARC cores make prettty much all other coolers redundant

ARC technology explained

Goto products, Commentary ◎ cooler interface | 1 2 3 4 5 6 7. and flick through the 7 pages

Edited by BoostdR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...