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Good stuff Simmo...

Go the brakes, don't hesitate to get an oil coiler, and from experience I would go with HKS 2510's, N1's or twin s15 turbo's.

In my experience, 2530's are cool however I think they are too laggy with a cooler to suit... however it really depends on how the car is tuned.

btw .. my old car almost cracked 400rwkw's with a stock r33 GTR cooler (the motor was hamburger with the lot running the original capacity).

cheers,

Oyabun.

Originally posted by Simmo

complete whiteline works kit, bumping bump stops up front. I'm leaning towards a setup very similar to some of the targa gtr's.  hicas operational.

Sorry, I didn't completely understand that...

You have a Whiteline Works Kit on your GTR, and it's hitting the bump stops? Where? On the street or the track?

What do you think of the Whiteline kit on the GTR for trackwork? I've had Whiteline Works kits on two of my other cars and they've been awesome, but I want the best possible setup for this GTR, and was wondering how the Whiteline kit would compare to Tein FLEX coilovers (their softest coilover)...

I don't want rock hard suspension for this car... I'm over that, so I need to find a compromise between street comfort and track handling :(

hey simmo j-racing is holding a track day on 12 october (sunday) in goulbourne (wakefeild park). if you're car ready enter. i'll be there.

ooohhh forgot anyone alse wishing to enter call jerry wang on

02 62807777 for info and prices.:D:);):cool: if not come up for a looksie, it'll be free admission for spectators, with plenty of gtr's,gts-t's,wrx's,200sx's etc. tearing up the track.

another thing i forgot to mention once you do get the oil sump taken out (read: pulling motor out) you might as well replace the oil pump with a larger higher flowing unit, (N1 or nismo)

might as well do the same with the water pump (same as above)

heat wrap the exhaust manifold (as with more power comes more heat)

larger drive pullies (including harmonic balancer)

replace every clamp with a larger better unit (aircraft quality)

:rolleyes::D

I'd love to make it but thats not going to happen I don't think :D

I hit the bumpstops up front on the rd, and our roads are quite smooth here. Other than that I like the kit, its not bone jarring stiff its a nice compromise.

Hi Simmo, "so many people told me that with roughly 400hp that would be the case."

Well let me be the first one to tell you othwerwise, we ran standard N1 rotors and callipers at 625 bhp, so whoever told you 400 bhp has a problem. I have never been a Ferodo fan. We used Hawk Carbotic pads all round in the blue compound, otherwise the system was basically the same as yours, except we ran one piece rotors.

If you are hitting the bumpstops on the front, either it's too low or the spring rate is not high enough. Mostly we find too low is the problem. I am not sure whether you have lower spring seat height adjustment or not. If not, you can easily have additional circlip grooves machinied in the Bilsteins to achieve the correct ride height. If it is lower than 345 mm centre of wheel to guard then it's too low.

Have you also upgraded the stabiliser bars? If not adjustables are definitely worthwhile.

Wheel alignment settings (for Wakelfield)

Front

RH Camber – 2.5 degrees negative

LH Camber – 3.0 degrees negative

RH Caster – 3.5 degrees positive

LH Caster – 4.0 degrees positive

Toe – out 1.0 mm each side

We actually run more caster than that, but it is tricky to achieve, basically the more the better.

Rear

RH Camber – 1.5 degrees negative

LH Camber – 2.0 degrees negative

Toe – in 2.0 mm each side (with no HICAS).

Hope that helps some more

PS; YOU ABSOLUTELY HAVE TO INCREASE THE SUMP CAPACITY AND ADD SOME BAFFLES. Would you like me to send you pictures of GTR engines where people thought otherwise? I have about 10 or so, with about half lapping slower slower than 1.11's. You are living on borrowed time.

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