Jump to content
SAU Community

Where To Buy Turbo Back Exhaust?

JONAM

By JONAM,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

JONAM Explorer

JONAM

Posted
Posted

hey guys,

ive gotta r33 gtst n i have saved up some money and thinking of going for a turbo back exhaust. ideally a second hand but i wouldnt know where to look for or what to look for (melbourne S.E)!!! i dont want it to be extreamly loud but little bit of roughness in the exhaust would be nice :P as long as the cops dont pull me over and send me for EPA tests all the time.your thoughts and ideas plz

thankx in advance :)

Oj

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254112-where-to-buy-turbo-back-exhaust/
Share on other sites
rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
Posted

A genuine Nismo or Fujitsubo Legalis is probably the quietest system available off the shelf... but will be very expensive with the exchange rate now... plus they're cat back so you need to source front pipes separately. My setup was: HKS bell dump pipes, Trust MX front pipes, catco hi-flow cats (BATMBL's), and Trust MX cat-back.

I had that Trust MX but it was still loud enough to get 1 EPA notice long time ago, even though it was still quieter than most other exhaust on the market. It was tested right on the 90db limit which is basically the loudest legal allowed, and I've been avoiding further notices since by putting an Apexi 4" tip silencer.

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

the way i did it was to buy a split dump front pipe / dump pipe combo in one ie; BATMBL split dump or CES or BOS Importing split dump

they are on the forums. then take this to your local exhaust shop and say fit this and then supply a highflow 3" cat back exhaust for this pipe and this car

then they can match what they have and fit your split dump / front pipe combo also.

this way you get a perfect mated 3" turbo back pipe setup and then a standard ish 3" cat back system

or you can get the japanese cat back systems but be pre-pared to pay $$ and then ship it around etc

rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
Posted

If you don't want it loud, make sure you have the centre resonator as opposed to only straight pipe and relying on rear muffler only.

It does help a lot. Most system that is not too loud would have a resonator in the middle. And if you're going to get someone to do it locally make sure you do a bit of research that the workshop you're going to ask to do it with have done something like that before and know what they're doing. Not because the workshop themselves tell you they know what they're doing, cos obviously they want your business and then just move on afterwards.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...