Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtr Weights Splits

tacker

By tacker,
in Motorsport Discussion & Builds

 Share

Recommended Posts

tacker Mentor

tacker

Posted
Posted

Guys,

any idea what a good weight distrabution for an R32 GTR is i have weighed mine and have roughly a 58% front / 42% rear split and a diagonal weight difference of 18 kgs with driver and fuel.

Anyone else played around with this?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254119-r32-gtr-weights-splits/
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

about to do mine in the next few weeks....I will post up too. GTR is too nose heavy but we will do what we can.

I spoke to someone about this the other day - apparently all the super cars run lead because left to right balance is more important than overall weight...interesting to consider.

  • 2 weeks later...
tacker Mentor

tacker

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok another go at the corner weights this weekend.

With driver and full fuel load i got the following.

front left 415kg

front right 444kg

rear left 291

rear right 309

So that is a FR to RL total of 735 kg and a FL to RR of 724kg

I cant get it any better without moving some the gear already installed into the car, so next week i start cutting the fuel cell, pumps mounting brakets and fire extingister and getting them all to the rear left corner. Once i get that corner heavier i will be able be able to better balance out the entire car

  • 4 weeks later...
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Well as promised here are the results from mine.

First thing I notice is that your car is a full 100kg lighter than mine so well done. the numbers are pretty depressing but meh.

FL 433kg

FR 471kg

RL 307kg

RR 346kg

That gives me diagonal cross weights of 779.5kg vs 780.5kg. Nick has a pretty good eye for setting this up.

Ride heights to acheive that guard to bottom of wheel (with 17" wheels) is:

FL 570

FR 575

RL 565

RR 567

So basically they focus on getting the diagonal weights right because that is where the wieght shifts on your average corner turn in under brakes. He did this by managing the ride height at each corner not by moving stuff inside. And its amazing that .5cm of difference in ride height makes up for 38kg in weight difference.

Also its painful to note that the front to rear distribution is 904F to 653R = 60%F 40%R

So... FR takes 1.5x the weight of the rear right. so anyone that tells you that they need larger rear tyres on a gtr is very much on drugs. given that generally gtr owners run same size wheels all around, and that the main weight shift is under brakes, the fronts will always be the tyres working hardest (this matches with what I have seen in tyre wear and tyre pressures)

  • 2 weeks later...
warps Mentor

warps

Posted
Posted
. He did this by managing the ride height at each corner not by moving stuff inside. And its amazing that .5cm of difference in ride height makes up for 38kg in weight difference.

Exactly. I would have thought ride heights will have the biggest impact on the corneer weights. Remember, the chassis is meant to be rigid, so you can't really change corner weights any other way. Front to back is a different matter, so the more crap you can mount in the back, the better.

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted

This stuff makes me cry.

Mine is still full weight ie stereo, interior etc with just a few things done to help matters eg HICAS.

Front is 905kg

Rear is 685kg.

Which gives a distribution of 57/43.

I should point out that I weigh 100kg with helmet etc.

Sorrt of explains why the things understeer so hard.

tacker Mentor

tacker

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yes duncan i have removed every bloody thing possible even down to alloy bolts if its not load bearing.

I plan to get a full T45 cage in over summer here and a wide body kit i have to do something to catch the bloody viper Z06 GT2 etc

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ToothDR32
      $5 Clock upgrade for R32 GTR

      By ToothDR32 · Posted

      Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...