Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a mate aswell who has a u12 like me and he wanted to know if a ka24de is a east west motor and will it fit in a u12?

KA24DE was used in locally sold U13 Bluebird and is definitely east-west (FWD). I had to fix one recently that had blown the distributor (common problem due to oil seal leak stuffing the internal electronics). Nissan wanted extortionate $$ even at trade prices and I ended up getting one in from the US at a fraction of the price along with all the rocker cover gaskets.

Anyway, the locally sold U12 Pintara came with the CA20E engine (read: boat anchor) as well as the KA24E (single cam) engine in higher spec models (Ti hatch). I'd say dropping in a KA24DE would be a relatively simple swap, but I've never done it so can't say for sure.

mate has a pintara TRX with the ka24E. lump of shite motor, and id say the twin cam version would be only slightly better. In japan the released the same car with 4wd and SR20det power....

think about it :down:

im sure u can get a different sump to suit a rwd application.

OP was asking about FWD application for a U12. U13 Bluebird fits the bill.

KA24DE was certainly available in RWD version. For example, late 90's Navara in Australia (actually both RWD and 4WD versions). In the US there was the popular 240SX (S13 and S14), of course, and even though Nissan never offered a turbo version from the factory, there have been many successful aftermarket turbo kits made for the KA24DE (designated KA24DE-T).

nissan usa released 240sx that had the ka24 rwd (180sx here) pintara in aus has the ka24, not that bad for what they are, would rather an sr20det though as jap u13 bluebird is (sss blubird if you see one look for the sss on the side, means sr20det 4wd inside)

  • 7 months later...
KA24DE was used in locally sold U13 Bluebird and is definitely east-west (FWD). I had to fix one recently that had blown the distributor (common problem due to oil seal leak stuffing the internal electronics). Nissan wanted extortionate $$ even at trade prices and I ended up getting one in from the US at a fraction of the price along with all the rocker cover gaskets.

Anyway, the locally sold U12 Pintara came with the CA20E engine (read: boat anchor) as well as the KA24E (single cam) engine in higher spec models (Ti hatch). I'd say dropping in a KA24DE would be a relatively simple swap, but I've never done it so can't say for sure.

Hello, I tried to PM you but I can't till my post count is at least 10. Was just wanting to know where you got the dizzy for the U13 KA24de motor from? I'm chasing one and retail is $575 at repco, and only a little less than that for trade price. Auto elecs want 300-400 to replace the module. What symptoms does the car get when the dizzy stuffs up? On this one, it has the oil leak as you mentioned, and it sometimes starts then shuts off after a minute, then won't start, and sometimes feels as though it's delivering weak spark.

Looking forward to your reply.

Thanks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...