Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey dudes,

Just been going through the shed and garage, got heaps of random stuff to get rid of, get in on it:

Parts located in Melb east, no dramas with posting any of this stuff either.

---

> Wolf V3 - $500

It works, comes with hand controller, can be upgraded to V4 Software and can be fitted to nissans with a re-wire.

> AVS Model 5 Rims - $700

17 x 9 +19 Matte Black rims, have been painted matte black, not with a can though, have a few chips around the holes, still look great. Suit GTR very well. Bloody tough offset. Rims Only.

http://s210.photobucket.com/albums/bb44/fe...3de0e1b89_o.jpg

http://s210.photobucket.com/albums/bb44/fe...nt=DSC04534.jpg

http://s210.photobucket.com/albums/bb44/fe...nt=DSC04535.jpg

http://s210.photobucket.com/albums/bb44/fe...nt=DSC04537.jpg

> R32 Front Strut Brace - $75

Random polished aluminium strut bar with white painted brackets. Suits all R32s.

> MOMO "Race" Steering Wheel - $200

As new condition.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Mo...html&hl=mat.

> Ferodo DS2500 Front pads - $300

Suits all skylines except ones fitted with Brembo brakes. Brand new in BOX.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fe...html&hl=mat.

> R32 GTSt Dash Cluster - $150 LOW KAYS!

Has blue background guages and about 50000 odd kays. Great condition.

> Autometer Boost Guage - $80

Sport Comp. Mint condish, black face with silver rim, comes with black cup, reads up to 20psi which is plenty.

> R33 GTSt RB25DET Injectors - $120

Freshly cleaned, never used on a car since. Perfect working order. Complete with rail and Reg.

> Plug in Start Button Arrangement - $50

Looks to be a turbo timer harness that has been modified to start the car at the push of the button. Suits all skylines.

> Turbo Timer Harness - $40

Unplug your key from the loom, plug this in, plug it to your loom, plug your TT in and thats it. Has adapter harness for various makes of TT. Suits all skylines.

> R32 GTR Front Brake Setup - $600

Sumitomo front calipers, RDA Slotted and dimpled discs done 1000kms, GTR brake lines, nissan pads with plenty of meat left.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...html&hl=mat.

> R32 Boot Trims - $50

Good condition, could do with a clean, one has provision for a strut bar to be fitted. Suits all R32.

> R32 P/S A-Pillar Trim - $25

Absolutely Immaculate condition. Perfect if your car had 2 ways and has left holes in your trim. Suits 2 Door 32s.

> R32 Circlip Adj Bilstein Rear Shock Absorbers - $50

One has the top broken off, due to pot hole collision, the other is mint. Comes with spring plates and circlips. Perfect for someone who has hit a big pot hole. Suits all 32.

> R32 Under Engine Tray - $100

The plastic garnish tray that fits under the engine. All in-tact. Extremely rare.

> Sony 1200W 12" Subwoofer Mate in a box - $50

Perfect working order. Comes with box, but box has a small rectangular hole in the back where amp used to be. Gives good vibrations.

> 3" Cat - $50

Has broken insides, would be good to gut and use for track. Can fit all cars.

> Random Turbo Timer - $10

Random Turbo Timer. Have never tried to use it. If someone wants it ill try it out.

> RB Head Gasket - $50

Brand new in plastic wrapping. Genuine Nissan. Its for a 26 but i think it fits all.

> RB Thermostat - $50

Dont pay over 100 from nissan. Genuine item. Its for a 26 but i think it fits all.

> RB Oil Pump gasket - $20

Genuine Nissan from full set.

> GTR BOV Gaskets - $10ea

Genuine Nissan. Ive got 3.

---

For some reason I cant upload pics WTF, but ill try again soon.

Cheers,

Mat.

0400 558 030

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254666-the-random-part-basket/
Share on other sites

Cat SOLD

Brake Calipers SOLD

Rotors SOLD Pending Payment

Bump on everything else, make offers on any parts.

Painting of AVS wheels will be done professionally in 2pack to a high a gloss in any colour!

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
    • Bit of a similar question, apprently with epoxy primer you can just sand the panel to 240 grit then apply it and put body filler on top. So does that basically mean you almost never have to go to bare metal for simple dents?
×
×
  • Create New...